Thread: Hi from Virginia

I've seen information on the site aimed at beginners which explain the different grinds and sizes and methods and manufacturers and such but I'm not seeing an inspection checklist so that when you buy a razor you have an idea on things like edge curvature, weight, a visual guide to different metals and such that would be of great worth to me right now. It's possible that this could be a usable blade but my initial respect (read: fear) of the edge is making me more paranoid than I really need to be.

Here are some photos I've been able to get of the various angles and things I've noticed.

Taken with a 60mm Macro lens and adjusted for lens distortion.


_DSC1608 by Jinxt, on Flickr


_DSC1606 by Jinxt, on Flickr


_DSC1604 by Jinxt, on Flickr


_DSC1602 by Jinxt, on Flickr


_DSC1601 by Jinxt, on Flickr


_DSC1600 by Jinxt, on Flickr

Some simple tests you can do, to determine general quality of workmanship:

1. Test for warp:

(a) Lay the razor's blade flat on a flat surface (glass tabletop or similar works well).

Note whether the spine lays flat on the glass, or whether it rises in the middle, or at the ends.

(b) Now, turn the razor over. Note how the spine lays.

If the spine is higher in the middle in (a), and higher at the ends in (b), the razor is warped. "Warp" makes it difficult to hone, but doesn't mean that it's a "bad razor".

2. Test for frown:

Find a flat, smooth surface that's not too hard -- a Formica countertop works OK.

Place the razor's edge against the surface, _gently_, with the blade vertical.

Put a light behind the razor.

Look at the light coming out between the razor's edge and the surface.

A well-ground razor will have either a straight edge (no light gets through), or a "smile" (light is blocked at the center, but comes through around the toe and heel). If you rock a smiling razor (from toe to heel), it should always have one point on the edge touching the surface.

A razor with a "frown" will have two point on the edge that touch the surface, with light coming through between them. Frowning razors are generally frowned upon here; they're tricky to hone, unless you start by re-shaping the edge to remove the frown. Frowns are fairly common in vintage razors, but should _not_ happen in a modern blade.

But the really important question --

. . . Will the razor take and hold a good edge ?

can only be answered after it's been honed, and you've shaved with it. You can't tell "by eye" whether the steel has been properly hardened or not.

Charles

PS -- Just think of the education you're getting for $25 !!! <g>

As you can see from the photos I took of it, it practically has a double frown and the edge and spine are both a little warped.

This was a brand new razor sold as shave-ready.

They are supposedly sending me a new one of better quality (a totally different model from the one I ordered) to try and make good.

If it was just a $20 razor that would be one thing, but when this razor is not on sale they sell them for $99.99

Oh, yea, that is just a hot mess going on over there.

Oh, great googly moogley. At least you've got a letter opener now.

CPCohen,

If nothing else, PM me, and I'll send you a good razor to start out with. I've loaned this particular razor to a few other guys starting out, and they've all gotten on quite well with it. i'd only ask you cover shipping. Otherwise, I'll hone it back up to snuff and send it to you. From Alexandria to NN, should only take one or two days...

Bill

Originally Posted by LegalBeagle

CPCohen,

If nothing else, PM me, and I'll send you a good razor to start out with. I've loaned this particular razor to a few other guys starting out, and they've all gotten on quite well with it. i'd only ask you cover shipping. Otherwise, I'll hone it back up to snuff and send it to you. From Alexandria to NN, should only take one or two days...

Bill

I really appreciate the offer and I might take you up on it in a few weeks. I think what I'd really like to do is peek through a bunch of the local antique shops and a couple flea markets to see if I can't find something that speaks to me and send it off to get honed. If I end up empty handed I will definitely get hold of you about the loaner to see if I'm going to get into it enough to snag a sight unseen special and then maybe accumulate a small working collection as I grow (as is typical of my hobbies).

You guys are great, thank you

Not a problem, CP. If nothing else, when you find that razor, send it my way and I'll hone it for you...

Originally Posted by Jinxt

I really appreciate the offer and I might take you up on it in a few weeks. I think what I'd really like to do is peek through a bunch of the local antique shops and a couple flea markets to see if I can't find something that speaks to me and send it off to get honed. If I end up empty handed I will definitely get hold of you about the loaner to see if I'm going to get into it enough to snag a sight unseen special and then maybe accumulate a small working collection as I grow (as is typical of my hobbies).

Hello Jinxt, and welcome. There can be good stuff in antique stores, but sometimes it needs a really close look. Review the razors section on our Wiki, and it sounds like you've now seen our razors to avoid list.

The main issue I watch for (besides obvious things like closes centered, no big chips, scales aren't rotting) is micropitting along the edge. Take along a good magnifier (mine's a 10x Baush & Lomb Hastings triplet) and inspect the edge for tiny pits. They're usually in clusters, and make the metal look like Swiss cheese. If they're along the actual edge or even close to the bevel, ditch that blade. Sometimes you can hone them out, but it's a bad risk. They extend into the metal like a tiny cave network.

You may see areas of pitting where the blade touches the scales. Here it's more a cosmetic problem that a little sanding can fix. Rust on the blade isn't a big crisis, unless it's bad along the edge and/or flakes off in red chunks. Again, you can sand it.

Celluloid rot can be a dramatic condition to find. You'll see a very localized rusting on the blade that matches a deterioration of the scale's inner surface. The celluloid scale is breaking down and releasing either acetic or nitric acid vapor, depending on how it was made. You can rescue these blades, as long as the damage isn't at an edge. First thing to do, though, is get the scales off and throw them away. They're like bad apples; cell rot in one scale can trigger it in other scales stored nearby. For an exciting kick, take the scales out to your sidewalk and light them on fire. Wear sunglasses; it's one bright flame!

Old horn scales can get worm tracks in them, too. I've got one blade that had some worm-associated rust on it, but a little worm slime doesn't do much damage.

I hope you make some lucky finds. If you see something you like, you can post pics here and folks can tell you if it's a good blade or not. Include any stamps on the tang in your pics. We cannot counsel you on price/value; that's one of the big rules here. You can also just type the razor name into the search box up in the right corner and see if it's been discussed here. That's how I made my own first well-informed antique razor purchase--though it was not my first ever antique razor purchase

Good luck and best wishes.