Thread: How to keep the razor from rusting?

Many of us have learned about rusting through unfortunate experience or acquiring vintage razors having rust issues. I recommend consultation regarding rust removal with someone here that has done it successfully many times. Generally Dremels are not recommended as it is very easy to destroy a razor with this tool, sometimes with operator injury. Anything abrasive used on a razor, even polishes like MAAS, will probably ruin gold wash. Any abrasives may destroy blade etchings, if present.

Hand polishing with MAAS or similar products may work, if the rusting is very light and shallow. Deeper rust may require working with abrasive papers of various grits. It is easy to scratch a blade and extensive work may be needed to remove those scratches. It is important to recognize that rust is steel that has reacted with oxygen and that the steel is gone from its former location. Making the rust impacts "dissapear" may require removing good steel to below the bottom of any rust pits. It is much easier to prevent rust than to try correcting its issues after occurrence.

It is very important to keep water from between the scales, especially around the pivot pin. If water gets in, it is important to dry it ASAP or rust and water spotting will begin. Finger prints and skin oils promote rust and should be wiped from blades before putting them away. If one uses a razor almost every day and wipes it after each use, one may get away with not oiling it after every use, but bare carbon steel will eventually start to rust if left unprotected. Many use mineral oil or camellia oil for protection. Mineral oil is often used for cutlery because it is non-toxic, non-acidic, and does not oxidize. Oils used for firearms protection are better for longer term razor storage rust protection, but should be wiped off before shaving as most are toxic.

Ballistol is a firearms rust protecting lubricant that is often recommended for razors because of its very low toxicity. The Ballistol Material Safety Data Sheet indicates that Ballistol was fed to animals with no apparent harm. Ballistol is claimed to be compatable with wood and leather. Some razor users wax their blades with Renaissance Wax and some use silicon cloths for wiping between uses and silicon impregnated sleaves for storage.

Scales made of horn, ivory, genuine tortoise shell, or certain other materials may be incompatable with some rust protection materials. Consult with an expert if you have razors with such scales. I also try to keep protective coating materials off leather strops so that strop draw will not be affected.

HTH

A simple solution can be any sort of vegetable oil, like plain olive oil. Super simple, and cheap, easy to remove. Main thing is to keep stored razors dry, and have them coated with a film of oil when you don't use them.
Some modern oils might have additives that might come into conflict with your handles. Simple olive oil doesn't.

Mineral oil is inexpensive and works well for preventing rust. You can get it in the drugstore or supermarket. I live in humid Miami and have tried a variety of oils, but the mineral oil works just as well at a fraction of the cost.

Found them package has 1000 pieces if anybody is interested in breaking it up let me know

Originally Posted by Airportcopper

Found them package has 1000 pieces if anybody is interested in breaking it up let me know

E bay has small sellers and that way yer not trying to create a Group Buy

Just Ebay search VCI Paper Sheets

Mineral oil is cheap and does the job for me at least 100% CHeers

I just use vaseline. Whenever I've had a blade stropped, it comes back to me with vaseline on it (gelled mineral oil?) so I figure that's a good way.

What I don't understand is why more folks dont just use it. It seems easy and I bought a tiny travel-size thing. I just dip my finger tip in and put it on. Use a tissue to remove before I strop on the next shave. Don't have to mess with oils (which kept beading up on the blade for me for some reason).

At the nyc/nj meet up i saw some badly damaged razors from min oil, not saying min oil is a bad choice i personally was using it i have switched to a lite coating of tuff glide or wd40 after seeing the damage u should still check on them.if.using.min oil.wjpe down and.reapply after some time.in.storage

Vegetale oils can turn rancid, smell &/or get sticky or even stain your razor. Olive is reasonably safe , Soy oil is bad news.
If in a rotation that will sit for some time best to use something designed for the purpose. Some modern WD sprays are even Kosher graded so they would be top of my list.

Rookie here and awaiting my first razor in the mail. Just a logistics quetion about when to add the oil and when to strop. Some guys are saying they add it before they strop? I am sure there are variations of peoples routines, but I was under the impression you wipe off the razor, strop, then shave, wipe dry the razor and add a thin coat of oil after your all done?