Thread: How to keep the razor from rusting?

Hi guys, I'm getting another razor by january 10th but i'd like to know how to keep my new razor from rusting and how to remove ir from my old one, any ideas?, thanks in advance.

Hi Salv3. After reading a few threads it appears that oil is a preffered choice by a lot of guys here. I cant say i have tried... usually i give mine a thourough dry and then store in a box but only yesterday i noticed a few tiny rust spots on one of my razors. Not 100% what is the best oil to use but im planning on using baby oil.

Originally Posted by tbert33

Hi Salv3. After reading a few threads it appears that oil is a preffered choice by a lot of guys here. I cant say i have tried... usually i give mine a thourough dry and then store in a box but only yesterday i noticed a few tiny rust spots on one of my razors. Not 100% what is the best oil to use but im planning on using baby oil.

Hi Tom,

Balistol oil is universally regarded as probably the best oil one can use on a straight razor, use a little cotton bud to give your blade a wipe over. Safe Oil in an Bottle from Ballistol

Jamie

Cheers Jamie. Ill get ordering some now.

I run my razor under hot water then strop dry on a towel I have laid out next to the sink.


I then use this applicator;






What you use in the applicator is up to you. I use a Camellia Oil and Corrosion X mixture. I got my applicator about three years ago from Japan Woodworkers and it is still working well.


Take Care,
Richard

Thanks, both of you i'll orden some too, also, is there a way of taking off the rust of a razor? Thanks in advance

No worries. To take rust off you will need sandpaper (depends how deep the rust and pitting is as to what grade of sand paper you use... I THINK - im definatley not the person to recommend a grade as i have never tried to - i send my razors to Jamie (aka celticcrusader) as im not confident yet) or a dremel. The dremel is much faster but i dont think it is recommended as a tool to use for someone who is new to restoring razors... but if your confident enough and have one to hand why not have a go.

Originally Posted by riooso

I run my razor under hot water then strop dry on a towel I have laid out next to the sink.


I then use this applicator;






What you use in the applicator is up to you. I use a Camellia Oil and Corrosion X mixture. I got my applicator about three years ago from Japan Woodworkers and it is still working well.


Take Care,
Richard

What is that applicator called Richard? looks like a handy bit of kit.

Many of us have learned about rusting through unfortunate experience or acquiring vintage razors having rust issues. I recommend consultation regarding rust removal with someone here that has done it successfully many times. Generally Dremels are not recommended as it is very easy to destroy a razor with this tool, sometimes with operator injury. Anything abrasive used on a razor, even polishes like MAAS, will probably ruin gold wash. Any abrasives may destroy blade etchings, if present.

Hand polishing with MAAS or similar products may work, if the rusting is very light and shallow. Deeper rust may require working with abrasive papers of various grits. It is easy to scratch a blade and extensive work may be needed to remove those scratches. It is important to recognize that rust is steel that has reacted with oxygen and that the steel is gone from its former location. Making the rust impacts "dissapear" may require removing good steel to below the bottom of any rust pits. It is much easier to prevent rust than to try correcting its issues after occurrence.

It is very important to keep water from between the scales, especially around the pivot pin. If water gets in, it is important to dry it ASAP or rust and water spotting will begin. Finger prints and skin oils promote rust and should be wiped from blades before putting them away. If one uses a razor almost every day and wipes it after each use, one may get away with not oiling it after every use, but bare carbon steel will eventually start to rust if left unprotected. Many use mineral oil or camellia oil for protection. Mineral oil is often used for cutlery because it is non-toxic, non-acidic, and does not oxidize. Oils used for firearms protection are better for longer term razor storage rust protection, but should be wiped off before shaving as most are toxic.

Ballistol is a firearms rust protecting lubricant that is often recommended for razors because of its very low toxicity. The Ballistol Material Safety Data Sheet indicates that Ballistol was fed to animals with no apparent harm. Ballistol is claimed to be compatable with wood and leather. Some razor users wax their blades with Renaissance Wax and some use silicon cloths for wiping between uses and silicon impregnated sleaves for storage.

Scales made of horn, ivory, genuine tortoise shell, or certain other materials may be incompatable with some rust protection materials. Consult with an expert if you have razors with such scales. I also try to keep protective coating materials off leather strops so that strop draw will not be affected.

HTH

A simple solution can be any sort of vegetable oil, like plain olive oil. Super simple, and cheap, easy to remove. Main thing is to keep stored razors dry, and have them coated with a film of oil when you don't use them.
Some modern oils might have additives that might come into conflict with your handles. Simple olive oil doesn't.