Thread: How to keep the razor from rusting?

Vegetale oils can turn rancid, smell &/or get sticky or even stain your razor. Olive is reasonably safe , Soy oil is bad news.
If in a rotation that will sit for some time best to use something designed for the purpose. Some modern WD sprays are even Kosher graded so they would be top of my list.

Rookie here and awaiting my first razor in the mail. Just a logistics quetion about when to add the oil and when to strop. Some guys are saying they add it before they strop? I am sure there are variations of peoples routines, but I was under the impression you wipe off the razor, strop, then shave, wipe dry the razor and add a thin coat of oil after your all done?

Originally Posted by HooliganKing

Rookie here and awaiting my first razor in the mail. Just a logistics quetion about when to add the oil and when to strop. Some guys are saying they add it before they strop? I am sure there are variations of peoples routines, but I was under the impression you wipe off the razor, strop, then shave, wipe dry the razor and add a thin coat of oil after your all done?

Keep the protective oils off your strop. It will affect the draw. I strop after cleaning then reoil. I strop before and after shaving. You do not need oil, after stropping before shaving. I can feel a difference in draw on the leather if I strop on linen before latigo leather. The draw is slicker if I use linen before leather.

Originally Posted by sheajohnw

Keep the protective oils off your strop. It will affect the draw. I strop after cleaning then reoil. I strop before and after shaving. You do not need oil, after stropping before shaving. I can feel a difference in draw on the leather if I strop on linen before latigo leather. The draw is slicker if I use linen before leather.

Perfect! I am trying to read as much as possible - so much good info on this forum. Thanks again!

After completing the shave, I wipe the razor dry, scales included and then let it sit while I finish with alum and clean up. Then I strop the razor and put it in a box with desiccant packs. I live in southern California where it is rarely humid which may also help.

I use the SRD applicator bottle that is sold on their site, it works well. I prefer an applicator to using my fingers, as I don't want my skin oils on the blade at all. I also recommend Mineral Oil. It's natural, non-toxic, and protects metals extremely well. I don't recommend the use of Baby Oil, as it is Mineral Oil but also contains "fragrances" of which I don't know the effect on metals. I also feel no need to experiment to find out what they do to my nice shiny razor blade, so I stick with generic brand mineral oil that you find in the laxatives section of your local pharmacy. It's approximately $4.50 US for a huge bottle of it. To prevent any rusting outside of that, I only let water touch the blade of the razor itself during my shave to clean off the lather, and wipe the blade dry after each time it touches water. The blade gets thoroughly dried after each shave, then sits out for at least 30 minutes with the blade open, to ensure better drying and rust prevention. Moisture in the scales will be your razors ultimate demise. I've also considered a desiccant in a wooden case for the SR to ensure proper absorption.

I wipe mine with mineral oil from the local grocery store, haven't had any rust yet.

Mineral oil works well for me.

Russell

After shaving, I wipe the blade and scales, a little shake, then close and open it, wipe again, 5 laps on felt and 5 laps on leather. I always leave it 1/2 open to air dry.

The bottom line is you should put on a coating of something that will create a barrier between water and the blade. If you have a wooden cutting board, you probably have something or will need something to put on that (mineral oil or mixture with a wax...etc.)...use that. The less saturated vegetable oils will eventually turn rancid because they oxidize quicker, so if you're using the oil for everyday use, no problem because it's not staying on months. Unless you have wooden scales that aren't finished then they'll soak them up and eventually smell.

I use a mixture of mineral oil and coconut oil because that's what I have and coconut oil takes a long time to go rancid. I make apply mine with a cloth that I oil up like a wood finishing tack cloth. I put a couple drops of mineral oil and some coconut oil (because I cook with it, its very saturated and won't go rancid for a long time, and smells great) on a microfiber towel and put it in a bag for a week or so until the whole cloth is covered in the oil. You won't feel the oil in the cloth, but as soon as you wipe your blade you'll notice the thinnest coat of oil. That's all you need. I've been doing this with all my woodworking tools, knives and gear that I take outdoors with no issues. Hope this helps.