Results 31 to 40 of 51
-
01-18-2013, 04:33 PM #31
Mineral oil is cheap and does the job for me at least 100% CHeers
-
01-18-2013, 07:39 PM #32
I just use vaseline. Whenever I've had a blade stropped, it comes back to me with vaseline on it (gelled mineral oil?) so I figure that's a good way.
What I don't understand is why more folks dont just use it. It seems easy and I bought a tiny travel-size thing. I just dip my finger tip in and put it on. Use a tissue to remove before I strop on the next shave. Don't have to mess with oils (which kept beading up on the blade for me for some reason).
-
01-18-2013, 07:43 PM #33
At the nyc/nj meet up i saw some badly damaged razors from min oil, not saying min oil is a bad choice i personally was using it i have switched to a lite coating of tuff glide or wd40 after seeing the damage u should still check on them.if.using.min oil.wjpe down and.reapply after some time.in.storage
-
01-18-2013, 08:27 PM #34
How to keep the razor from rusting?
Another tufglide advocate here - I've seen it dull the shine on some lacquered timber scales, but apart from that its great.
-
01-19-2013, 01:22 AM #35
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- OKC
- Posts
- 53
Thanked: 10I wipe my blade off, then strop it about 10 licks, and finally a drop of razor oil from SRD on each side. Worked so far.
Steve
-
01-22-2013, 05:45 PM #36
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Posts
- 63
Thanked: 5Any synthetic motor oil . I've used Castrol on guns, tools and anything metal that needs lubricated and protected. It will not stain and works great for me. It will never dry out. I read that Japanese museums need to re-polish their swords about every 100 years because in time there is a deteriation of the finish. Maybe use of synthetic oil would prevent that.
-
02-08-2013, 12:36 PM #37
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Posts
- 18
Thanked: 3I use this
Renaissance Wax Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish 65ml | OttoFrei.com
Rub on the blade and rub off. Last a long time and does not get sticky. Will not hurt scales and can be applied to bone, horn, wood or whatever and is chemically inert. Museums use this stuff to protect metals, wood and even fine paintings
-
02-08-2013, 04:36 PM #38
I use an Aburatsubo filled with Ballistol. Works perfect for me.
-
02-23-2013, 01:50 PM #39
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- London (UK)
- Posts
- 1
Thanked: 0I use ACF-50.
I keep a small microfiber cloth (the kind used as lens cleaners) dampened with ACF-50 in a plastic bag. After rinsing and drying the blade, I’ll give it a quick go on the strop and then give it a wipe with the cloth. When it’s time to use the razor again, a single wipe with a tissue before stropping and it’s ready to go. It’s brilliant stuff. I haven’t had to worry about stains or rust since I started using it.
-
02-24-2013, 04:47 AM #40
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Pequea, Pennsylvania
- Posts
- 2,290
Thanked: 375I usually don't use anything, my straight's set in a toothbrush holder on a shelf just outside the shave den. When I'm finished using a blade I rinse it off with hot water, strop it and then soak the blade with rubbing alcohol and dry with a tissue then into the toothbrush holder. I've had no problems with rust. Now I have stored some straights in a box all together with no oil, these are antique store finds, I don't use them and they have rusted after polishing with mothers metal polish or maas
CHRIS