Hi guys, I'm getting another razor by january 10th but i'd like to know how to keep my new razor from rusting and how to remove ir from my old one, any ideas?, thanks in advance.
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Hi guys, I'm getting another razor by january 10th but i'd like to know how to keep my new razor from rusting and how to remove ir from my old one, any ideas?, thanks in advance.
Hi Salv3. After reading a few threads it appears that oil is a preffered choice by a lot of guys here. I cant say i have tried... usually i give mine a thourough dry and then store in a box but only yesterday i noticed a few tiny rust spots on one of my razors. Not 100% what is the best oil to use but im planning on using baby oil.
Hi Tom,Quote:
Originally Posted by tbert33
Balistol oil is universally regarded as probably the best oil one can use on a straight razor, use a little cotton bud to give your blade a wipe over. Safe Oil in an Bottle from Ballistol
Jamie
Cheers Jamie. Ill get ordering some now.
I run my razor under hot water then strop dry on a towel I have laid out next to the sink.
I then use this applicator;
Attachment 116521
What you use in the applicator is up to you. I use a Camellia Oil and Corrosion X mixture. I got my applicator about three years ago from Japan Woodworkers and it is still working well.
Take Care,
Richard
Thanks, both of you i'll orden some too, also, is there a way of taking off the rust of a razor? Thanks in advance
No worries. To take rust off you will need sandpaper (depends how deep the rust and pitting is as to what grade of sand paper you use... I THINK - im definatley not the person to recommend a grade as i have never tried to - i send my razors to Jamie (aka celticcrusader) as im not confident yet) or a dremel. The dremel is much faster but i dont think it is recommended as a tool to use for someone who is new to restoring razors... but if your confident enough and have one to hand why not have a go.
What is that applicator called Richard? looks like a handy bit of kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by riooso
Many of us have learned about rusting through unfortunate experience or acquiring vintage razors having rust issues. I recommend consultation regarding rust removal with someone here that has done it successfully many times. Generally Dremels are not recommended as it is very easy to destroy a razor with this tool, sometimes with operator injury. Anything abrasive used on a razor, even polishes like MAAS, will probably ruin gold wash. Any abrasives may destroy blade etchings, if present.
Hand polishing with MAAS or similar products may work, if the rusting is very light and shallow. Deeper rust may require working with abrasive papers of various grits. It is easy to scratch a blade and extensive work may be needed to remove those scratches. It is important to recognize that rust is steel that has reacted with oxygen and that the steel is gone from its former location. Making the rust impacts "dissapear" may require removing good steel to below the bottom of any rust pits. It is much easier to prevent rust than to try correcting its issues after occurrence.
It is very important to keep water from between the scales, especially around the pivot pin. If water gets in, it is important to dry it ASAP or rust and water spotting will begin. Finger prints and skin oils promote rust and should be wiped from blades before putting them away. If one uses a razor almost every day and wipes it after each use, one may get away with not oiling it after every use, but bare carbon steel will eventually start to rust if left unprotected. Many use mineral oil or camellia oil for protection. Mineral oil is often used for cutlery because it is non-toxic, non-acidic, and does not oxidize. Oils used for firearms protection are better for longer term razor storage rust protection, but should be wiped off before shaving as most are toxic.
Ballistol is a firearms rust protecting lubricant that is often recommended for razors because of its very low toxicity. The Ballistol Material Safety Data Sheet indicates that Ballistol was fed to animals with no apparent harm. Ballistol is claimed to be compatable with wood and leather. Some razor users wax their blades with Renaissance Wax and some use silicon cloths for wiping between uses and silicon impregnated sleaves for storage.
Scales made of horn, ivory, genuine tortoise shell, or certain other materials may be incompatable with some rust protection materials. Consult with an expert if you have razors with such scales. I also try to keep protective coating materials off leather strops so that strop draw will not be affected.
HTH
A simple solution can be any sort of vegetable oil, like plain olive oil. Super simple, and cheap, easy to remove. Main thing is to keep stored razors dry, and have them coated with a film of oil when you don't use them.
Some modern oils might have additives that might come into conflict with your handles. Simple olive oil doesn't.
All of the above ideas are fine, but one must remember that all 'oils' are effected by the environment that they are kept in. Nothing lasts for ever.
Up to your ideas on the subject, but taking the blade out every once in awhile for a quick wipe off and redressing wouldn't hurt.
(Just on the chance that it would work, I've picked up some magnets at Harbor Freight and keep them with the spares).
Real men use WD-40. It also provides a pleasant tingling sensation during one's next shave.
I walked into the store and got this.Quote:
Originally Posted by tbert33
Applicator for Camellia Oil - The Japan Woodworker Catalog
This is just an idea. I see above that SDR carries one exactly like it. Japanese are really big on Camellia Oil which I like also. The reason that I use Corrosion X is that it is not toxic, actually bonds with the metal, and displaces water. I have been using this stuff for over a decade on many things. It keeps rust from forming because it sets up a high dielectric barrier that keeps the metal from rusting. I have never had a razor rust, discolor, or otherwise get funky with a coating applied. It is wise to coat all your razors every six months and don't forget the hinges.
It is also an excellent lubricant and I use it on all my fire arms. A word of warning when using on an automatic pistols, for instance, because it is such a good lubricant your weapon will not break in. Put at least 10K rounds through a pistol before using this as a lubricant.
Take Care,
R
I use the the "tuf-cloth" and the tuf- glide precision applicator for the pivot pins. Works for me.
I use mineral oil.. Very lil bit on my finger wipe it on both sides of razor after stropping..
Mineral oil does work quite well. I've been using it for more than four years and have never had a problem with rust.
+1
Mineral oil.
Works for me as well been using it for around 30 years. cheap and effective and i apply it the same way. razors in storage might need a reapplication every year or so. i store them in old wooden cigar boxes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Airportcopper
One of the keys that should be repeated here and pointed out is the Re-application process, if the razors are going to be stored for a length of time be very very very careful of what you put on them... I highly reccomend NOTHING and storing them in VCI wraps...
The main issues I am seeing lately is any type of natural oils and anything past the 2 week period, personally I hope you guys keep it up, I am making extra money having to get the sticky residue off of razors then polishing off the stains and re-honing, but for those that don't want to go through the heartache of seeing staining, and re-honing I suggest you look at Gun storage type products, or Re-apply every 2 weeks..
Maybe the gent that just had his DD's and Filarmonicas cleaned up will chime in.. That 8/8 NOS Wonderedge was sad to see with the staining the oil caused :(
Be careful with your choices
Where do.u purchase those wraps or r u talking about gun wrap papers?? Or what about handgun storage bags??
I buy them by the 1000's The razors I sent back to you were wrapped in them
Uline.com has them but it is a 1000 bundle min order, I have never looked elsewhere I am sure they are available in smaller batches just search "VCI paper"
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...t-Paper-Sheets
Since wax dissolves in oil, I putted some wax in mineral oil then slightly heat mix (no more 100c), it gives kinda wax cover on the blade.
Mineral oil is inexpensive and works well for preventing rust. You can get it in the drugstore or supermarket. I live in humid Miami and have tried a variety of oils, but the mineral oil works just as well at a fraction of the cost.
Found them package has 1000 pieces if anybody is interested in breaking it up let me know
E bay has small sellers and that way yer not trying to create a Group BuyQuote:
Originally Posted by Airportcopper
Just Ebay search VCI Paper Sheets
Question in regards to oil versus scales: Would Camellia Oil react negatively with resin impregnated wooden scales (more specifically figured maple wood)? Any better suggestion?Quote:
Originally Posted by sheajohnw
Thanks!
I've been a TuffGlide fan for a while now. It goes on thin and doesn't migrate like some oils do. And it doesn't get sticky.
I never had a problem, although you must wash the blade well before use.
Attachment 117081
Great stuff!! I'm pretty sure the site also says that it won't ruin plastic (ie scales) and works for woods as a stain or at least wont damage woods. But I could be wrong. Was using mineral oil and my razor is very tarnished but I feel like tuf glide stopped any further problems. Only problem is that it smells but once it dries it's fine, not sticky either but leaves a protective coating. The cloth is reactivated with a few drops from the applicator. And both last a long time. Attachment 117097Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarkus
How would baby oil work for oiling a blade? I have several bottles of the stuff lying around the house from when my son was little.
The Name in Japanese is Aburatsubo, I think it just means dispenser.Quote:
Originally Posted by tbert33
For sword and tools it's traditionally made out of bamboo.
Mineral oil is cheap and does the job for me at least 100% :) CHeers
I just use vaseline. Whenever I've had a blade stropped, it comes back to me with vaseline on it (gelled mineral oil?) so I figure that's a good way.
What I don't understand is why more folks dont just use it. It seems easy and I bought a tiny travel-size thing. I just dip my finger tip in and put it on. Use a tissue to remove before I strop on the next shave. Don't have to mess with oils (which kept beading up on the blade for me for some reason).
At the nyc/nj meet up i saw some badly damaged razors from min oil, not saying min oil is a bad choice i personally was using it i have switched to a lite coating of tuff glide or wd40 after seeing the damage u should still check on them.if.using.min oil.wjpe down and.reapply after some time.in.storage
Another tufglide advocate here - I've seen it dull the shine on some lacquered timber scales, but apart from that its great.
I wipe my blade off, then strop it about 10 licks, and finally a drop of razor oil from SRD on each side. Worked so far. :)
Steve
Any synthetic motor oil . I've used Castrol on guns, tools and anything metal that needs lubricated and protected. It will not stain and works great for me. It will never dry out. I read that Japanese museums need to re-polish their swords about every 100 years because in time there is a deteriation of the finish. Maybe use of synthetic oil would prevent that.
I use this
Renaissance Wax Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish 65ml | OttoFrei.com
Rub on the blade and rub off. Last a long time and does not get sticky. Will not hurt scales and can be applied to bone, horn, wood or whatever and is chemically inert. Museums use this stuff to protect metals, wood and even fine paintings
I use an Aburatsubo filled with Ballistol. Works perfect for me.
I use ACF-50.
I keep a small microfiber cloth (the kind used as lens cleaners) dampened with ACF-50 in a plastic bag. After rinsing and drying the blade, I’ll give it a quick go on the strop and then give it a wipe with the cloth. When it’s time to use the razor again, a single wipe with a tissue before stropping and it’s ready to go. It’s brilliant stuff. I haven’t had to worry about stains or rust since I started using it.
I usually don't use anything, my straight's set in a toothbrush holder on a shelf just outside the shave den. When I'm finished using a blade I rinse it off with hot water, strop it and then soak the blade with rubbing alcohol and dry with a tissue then into the toothbrush holder. I've had no problems with rust. Now I have stored some straights in a box all together with no oil, these are antique store finds, I don't use them and they have rusted after polishing with mothers metal polish or maas
