Thread: The Stub-Tailed Shavers

Originally Posted by altus

The ivory should not be oiled! It becomes translucent. It is not horn!None conservator or antiquarian puts oil on the ivory.Please do not ruin what has survived so many years!

The quote below is from Boone Trading Company @ the link provided by Science Guy in post # 649. I don't have a dog in the fight, but I'm providing the information for those who might want both sides of the issue.

"Some knife makers and scrimshanders use mineral oil to protect the ivory from shrinking or cracking due to dry climate or lack of humidity; this seems to work best with slabs and thin pieces. Place the unpolished slabs in mineral oil for several days, then remove, wipe off and store in a plastic bag until you're ready to use it; the ivory will absorb some oil and after being sanded and polished will allow even less moisture to escape thereby reducing the possibility of shrinking and cracking. Another technique for oiling ivory is to put the ivory in a double boiler pan (water in bottom pan) with enough mineral oil to cover the ivory slices and gradually increase the temperature of the ivory to the point where the ivory sends up tiny bubbles of air/moisture. Leave the pan on the stove for about eight hours, and raise the temperature if the bubbling stops, but the oil should not be boiling. After the eight hours turn off the heat and allow to cool, wipe off the oil and store until you are ready to use; the moisture in the ivory has been replaced with oil, you will not be able to see a difference. We do not recommend these oil soaking treatments for fossil ivory, as it can get an oil soaked look. Your natural skin oil rubbed on ivory will help turn the ivory yellow faster and give it that antique look."

Personally I've never oiled ivory even when I've worked it, so I wouldn't think it would be necessary. But I do have full faith that Boone knows what they're talking about.

I do oil my ivory, under the advisement of the late Pixelfixed. I have had no issues with it becoming translucent.

Thank you kcb5150 for sharing your rescaling technique.
It the generous and clearly stated gift of experience that makes SRP so valuable - and preserves our art.

Originally Posted by RezDog

I do oil my ivory, under the advisement of the late Pixelfixed. I have had no issues with it becoming translucent.

Yea, same reason I have used mineral oil on my few ivory scaled razors with no ill effects so far.

Bob

Originally Posted by Mrchick

I found this in the wild today. It's marked Millikin Dublin. I've been told in another thread that Millikin started in 1803. I'm pretty excited to find this razor and think it might be worth having it professionally restored, as I'm a little nervous about trying it myself. Any recommendations?

I sent this one to @Kevin78 for restoration and more appropriate scales. It turned out beautiful and is on deck for tomorrow.

Looking for info on the maker Roberts warranted on a old stub tail I just bought. I found other razors, but no info on the maker. No pics yet. Once I get it and clean her up I will.

So you won that one huh? I was watching it & my power went out so I had no internet. I'm glad someone from here got it. I already have one anyway.
I looked in my Tweedales Directory but there are too many Roberts listed in there. My Goins Encyclopedia has Roberts Warranted from 1850-1875 but I think that is wrong. Martin told me there were some inaccurate info in that book. My guess is early 1800's looking at the tail.

I was watching that one as well but totally forgot about it. Lol

Yeah I figure 1790 to 1810 but just a guess. Usually I find more info on these and loose the auction. Now I can't find info and win it. Seem like an interesting razor and an easy clean up, but have to wait and see.