Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 43
Like Tree44Likes

Thread: Masonic Joseph Elliot with silver inlay. How should I clean this?

  1. #21
    Member cheddardan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kootenay's British Columbia
    Posts
    31
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Thanks, am I correct in assuming that the black color in the divots of the silver are supposed to be there? I know there's a name for it, but I forget what it's called.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wullie View Post
    Thank you.

    IF you are of such a mind to keep messing with the blade, I suggest you use a No2 pencil to clean the etch. Use the pencil like you are coloring all the etch area. It will not make the blade "new" looking but will remove any rusty bits and will add a bit of character back to what is there. Stop frequently, wipe off the graphite and see what it looks like. When you're tired of coloring on it, wipe it down with an oily rag to remove the graphite, clean it well and as Tom suggested, use RENWAX or similar.

    Fraternally,
    Willie

  2. #22
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THAT RAZOR,(maybe have it pro honed at the least)
    saddens me at times to see some resto projects members do,make it shiny like Chrome Make scales that are off the wall ugly and not of the proper period to the razor.
    We have a responsibilty to preserve the great razors,many times doing less is more,JMO
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:

    mattluthier (03-04-2014)

  4. #23
    Member cheddardan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kootenay's British Columbia
    Posts
    31
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    I hear ya, I'm just talking about the scales, I don't plan to do anything further with the etching except to preserve it, but I'm going to wax the scales up a bit or at least clean them up a little (I was going to use acetone (no, not really)) and I was wondering about the dark areas inside the silver inlay. I know some jewelers put a product inside the creases of silver rings etc to give the piece depth, but I was hoping someone here would recognize what would be appropriate for the time period of this razor. Are the dark areas just debris or was it likely made that way??

    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THAT RAZOR,(maybe have it pro honed at the least)
    saddens me at times to see some resto projects members do,make it shiny like Chrome Make scales that are off the wall ugly and not of the proper period to the razor.
    We have a responsibilty to preserve the great razors,many times doing less is more,JMO

  5. #24
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cheddardan View Post
    I hear ya, I'm just talking about the scales, I don't plan to do anything further with the etching except to preserve it, but I'm going to wax the scales up a bit or at least clean them up a little (I was going to use acetone (no, not really)) and I was wondering about the dark areas inside the silver inlay. I know some jewelers put a product inside the creases of silver rings etc to give the piece depth, but I was hoping someone here would recognize what would be appropriate for the time period of this razor. Are the dark areas just debris or was it likely made that way??
    If indeed silver,leave it alone,thats patina that needs to remain,I realize your hot to trot on doing something to this razor.
    You should do nothing,ren-wax everything,leave it alone.
    sharptonn and Wullie like this.
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  6. #25
    Member cheddardan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kootenay's British Columbia
    Posts
    31
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    If indeed silver,leave it alone,thats patina that needs to remain,I realize your hot to trot on doing something to this razor.
    You should do nothing,ren-wax everything,leave it alone.
    I hear you, loud and clear................................. And I would still like to hear the thoughts of others regarding my specific question.
    Last edited by cheddardan; 03-04-2014 at 12:38 AM.

  7. #26
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cheddardan View Post
    I hear you, loud and clear.................................
    Thanks, you have a very nice pce of history.
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:

    cheddardan (03-04-2014)

  9. #27
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    26,100
    Thanked: 8612

    Default

    It is tarnish. The sign of age. It is supposed to look as such. Sure, you can get in the crevices of the inlay and scrub to get it nice and shiny. It looks better now. Trust me. Trust Pixel. We have seen the ravages of 'excessive restoration'. It has a soul and a very old one. Clean and wax. Hone and use. JMHO
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to sharptonn For This Useful Post:

    Martin103 (03-04-2014)

  11. #28
    Captain ARAD. Voidmonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Pacifica, CA
    Posts
    2,474
    Thanked: 2226

    Default

    First, the inlay is probably not silver. Most of the old Sheffield scales like that use pewter or german silver/nickel silver (which, despite the names, contain no silver -- it's an alloy of copper and nickel).

    I'd keep that one as it is. There's nothing to get in the way of honing it up and using it.

    As for the design, that's an interesting one and marks a transition in the industry. It's extremely similar in layout and elements to the relatively common Wade & Butcher masonic razor. (By common, in this case I don't mean there are lots of them, only that among Masonic razors, that's the more typical one.) It's artwork that was taken from a woodcut or other die, and was most likely used in a book.

    Before that style etch, the Masonic razors were typically done by hand with each element drawn on in acid-resist. That's what I mean about transition. Yours and the Wade & Butcher model were imprinted with a pre-made design. That suggests to me that these later designs were manufactured in some bulk and sold to lodges, where the earlier ones were likely made by special request or by local artists -- one-offs.

    As someone with well and truly more than his fair share of Joseph Elliot razors, I'd never seen one with an etch like that. I'm sure, honed up, it'll treat you great!
    sharptonn likes this.
    -Zak Jarvis. Writer. Artist. Bon vivant.

  12. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Voidmonster For This Useful Post:

    cheddardan (03-04-2014), sharptonn (03-04-2014)

  13. #29
    Member cheddardan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kootenay's British Columbia
    Posts
    31
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Thanks for the input Zak.

    I did have my suspicions as to whether the inlay was actually silver since it's just a bit too shiny (unless it was polished recently), however this has no oxidation to indicate a copper alloy such as with pewter and nickle silver. I'm going to take it into my usual jeweler for inspection or I could take it into the university and do a simple conductivity test. We'll see. Whatever the metal is, it runs through the scales and is molded into an anchor hold on the inside of the scales. I don't see any oxidation inside the crevice on the inside of the scales. If it were a copper alloy I would expect oxidation radiating from the crevice (at least a little), but I don't see any patina either (indicating silver). Regardless, it's well done. I'll report back when I have an answer to that question.

    I think everything being equal that this particular razor configuration is quite unique, as you mentioned. Doing a little research, I can find duplicates of some of the oldest and most ornate and expensive vintage razors on the forums and galleries, but I cannot find a duplicate of this one. I hope I never do

    Dan

    Quote Originally Posted by Voidmonster View Post
    First, the inlay is probably not silver. Most of the old Sheffield scales like that use pewter or german silver/nickel silver (which, despite the names, contain no silver -- it's an alloy of copper and nickel).

    I'd keep that one as it is. There's nothing to get in the way of honing it up and using it.

    As for the design, that's an interesting one and marks a transition in the industry. It's extremely similar in layout and elements to the relatively common Wade & Butcher masonic razor. (By common, in this case I don't mean there are lots of them, only that among Masonic razors, that's the more typical one.) It's artwork that was taken from a woodcut or other die, and was most likely used in a book.

    Before that style etch, the Masonic razors were typically done by hand with each element drawn on in acid-resist. That's what I mean about transition. Yours and the Wade & Butcher model were imprinted with a pre-made design. That suggests to me that these later designs were manufactured in some bulk and sold to lodges, where the earlier ones were likely made by special request or by local artists -- one-offs.

    As someone with well and truly more than his fair share of Joseph Elliot razors, I'd never seen one with an etch like that. I'm sure, honed up, it'll treat you great!

  14. #30
    Senior Member Siguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Black Bear, NJ
    Posts
    1,672
    Thanked: 171

    Default

    Dremel food! Seriously, though, take it slow. Research a little cleanup. I've dremeled far cleaner

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •