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01-19-2016, 06:05 PM #11
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01-20-2016, 02:23 PM #12
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Thanked: 45
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01-20-2016, 02:48 PM #13
Iwasaki: Witness me
"Call me Ishmael"
CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!
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01-20-2016, 04:53 PM #14
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- Egham, a little town just outside London.
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The Following User Says Thank You to markbignosekelly For This Useful Post:
WW243 (01-20-2016)
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01-20-2016, 05:45 PM #15
After about 1 hour with a p400 paper I'm about 50% done with removing the black color. This is seriously hard work. Its really deep in the steel that coating and it fills up the paper. If I had known how much work it would be I would not have done it, but now I need to finish it. For those of you who are thinking about doing this; DON'T...
For every expert there is an equal and opposite expert.
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01-20-2016, 05:54 PM #16
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Thanked: 1081.......
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01-20-2016, 05:58 PM #17
Maybe I'll duracoat it pink when its all done.
For every expert there is an equal and opposite expert.
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01-20-2016, 06:22 PM #18
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01-22-2016, 03:34 AM #19
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
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Thanked: 351That black coating is tough.... I would suggest (if it's not too late) you try a Scotch-Brite pad as they won't clog up like wet-dry paper. If you want to wet-sand with it, I'd use kerosene or mineral spirits aka paint thinner for oil based paints... The typical odorless paint thinner is the kind of thing I'm thinking of. Kerosene and turpentine are fine too, but the odor can be a bit much.
You can use it dry of course, but there's going to be a lot of dust created so I use a little bit of paint thinner if I have... it washes out the pad and keeps the dust down.
You can get scotch-brite wheels for dremel type tools, if you wish to flirt with potential disasters.
Personally, I would probably draw file with a fine single cut file, but that's me, and I'm comfortable with the technique. It can be very aggressive, and if you have any sort of impressed pattern in the item you are draw filing, it would be lost.
Regards
Christian"Aw nuts, now I can't remember what I forgot!" --- Kaptain "Champion of lost causes" Zero
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01-22-2016, 04:33 AM #20
I did eventually get it almost all off. Its about 99% done. Took me about 2h with a p400 and about 20 minuted with a p1000 paper.
And now today I'm gonna try to hone it on my coticule using a black marker to see if I'm doing it right.
I've been thinking about getting a feather kamisori SE to have as a reference for sharp blades.
btw getting that last 1% off would take me at least another hour or 2..Last edited by jigane; 01-22-2016 at 04:35 AM.
For every expert there is an equal and opposite expert.