Thread: where to get hardware for scales?

Collarless (no washers under the peen) is done too. Mainly on Ivory scales and it can be touchy to do. You look like you got a good start on your first. One thing I will point out if you don't mind is your wedge. It should be thinner at the back and thicker towards the blade. Before you test fit the blade, you hold or bolt the scales and wedge together and they should spread out from the wedge end in a V shape. Looks to me you made your wedge backward. This would pull the scales together and not put them out. Sometimes at the factory, they don't even use a wedge shape but a flat spacer.

When being really picky, you measure the thickness of the blade at the pivot. Then measure the length of your wedge. Measure that distance from the pivot on the blade towards the tail of the blade. At that point, you measure the thickness of the blade. The difference between the thickness of those two points is the difference you should have on your wedge from end to end. The thick end of the wedge is set by how deep you want the blade to sit in the scales.
Hope that makes sense to you.

There is some great info on building scales and making wedges in the library. I recommend you give it a good read. And lots of threads on wedge shapes have been posted in the past.
Some folks just make a wedge shape that is the thickness they want to hold the blade tip the right depth in the scales. Then tapper the wedge down so that when test fitting the scales a wedge together, the spread is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches at the pivot end of the scales. Close enough!



I just grabbed two scales and a wedge. Not made for each other. But you can see the spread of the scales because of the wedge. Wedge is thinner at the back and thicker at the front.