Thread: Cleaning the blade

It is totally going to depend on how careful you are. Honestly, if you kill the edge for safety, clean it up and then hit the hones you will not likely have to make many laps on a 1K or 3K hone to get the apex back. What takes a lot of effort is restoration honing where you are building an apex on a flat edge.

For future reference most of us leave the blade open overnight or all day. Any moisture in the scales drys so that won’t happen

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

For future reference most of us leave the blade open overnight or all day. Any moisture in the scales drys so that won’t happen

Yea when I was starting out, someone told me to do this and I"ve been doing it ever since (oh, and strop on canvas, the friction helps dry it out more)...I think this one time I closed it accidentally when I had to put the razor away mid shave to answer a call or smthg .

When I’m done shaving my post shave clean up is as follows: wipe blade with towel, close blade, rinse out brush, fan dry on hand, pack gear, and return to truck. Once in the truck I full strop, both linen and leather. Here’s the real secret: after stropping I apply mineral oil (baby oil) to the blade and return to leather roll up. Out of 42 razors I’ve only had spotting or staining issues with one blade. Still don’t know why, but I’m satisfied with my procedure to keep doing it.

As a truck driver on the road most nights, shaving in the truck stops, my processes must work every time. I venture if you oil your blade after every use you’ll minimize your risk of rusting, spotting, staining.

Renaissance wax has worked well for me to help prevent rust. I also dry with TP before stropping and store with the blade mostly open overnight before storing.(I''m also careful to keep everything dry as possible while shaving especially the scales and pivot.) Looks like some metal polish should clean up those stains.

As previously stated, metal polish should work.

I would say after any kind off abrasive make sure you give the blade a good coat of oil because it will then be susceptible to rust and staining..

Originally Posted by Longhaultanker

Out of 42 razors I’ve only had spotting or staining issues with one blade. Still don’t know why, but I’m satisfied with my procedure to keep doing it.

I had a razor that always rusted on one side of the tang. All I could guess was that the oil may have been wiped off on closing if the tang was a bit biased

Another spot that commonly rusts is at the front of the blade faces if they contact the scales on closing. Possibly the same reason or if the scales are wet there.

I’ve noticed the corroded areas where the scales touch the razor too Oz. After seeing so many with ho other evident ‘water wear’ I wondered if the scales themselves could do it. Research did not yield much, but this material preservation site had an interesting mention for cellulose nitrate, it can react with iron. Cellulose acetate didn’t have the same caution though. Scroll down to hazards and safety.

Cellulose nitrate - CAMEO

Arn’t those scales horn?

Originally Posted by Steve56

I’ve noticed the corroded areas where the scales touch the razor too Oz. After seeing so many with ho other evident ‘water wear’ I wondered if the scales themselves could do it. Research did not yield much, but this material preservation site had an interesting mention for cellulose nitrate, it can react with iron. Cellulose acetate didn’t have the same caution though. Scroll down to hazards and safety.

Cellulose nitrate - CAMEO

Well yes, celluloid can be an issue if it gases off as it is acidic but I do believe that organic materials can hold moisture & be a problem also especially if in contact with the blade at a friction point. Only got to look at some pivots to see what trapped moisture does.