Thread: First Japanese style razor

So the back side (bump side) is the hard steel. Ok. I thought it was the other way around. I guess as long as the wear on the back is not extreme and the width of the blade has not been worn down to a 5/8 or less i should be able to fix these with some work. Great info guys. Thanks for explaining. Now, as long as i dont end up with as many Kami's as Western....

Originally Posted by Gasman

So the back side (bump side) is the hard steel. ...

The back or ura on a kami has the stamps. Both sides are hollow except for the section above the ridge.
Below is a cross section of an Iwasaki. You can see the thin, dark, hard steel on the "back" or ura.

Ok. Got it. Boy was i wrong. Thanks for correcting me on this Oz. This now makes more sense.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Ok. Got it. Boy was i wrong. Thanks for correcting me on this Oz. This now makes more sense.

All good Jerry. Pics worth a thousand words

This has helped. I can now see why if one had a wide hone wear pattern on the Omote side (softer steal so easy to happen) and was to just sand out the hone wear, it could cause more of a wedge shape on that side. So cutting a hollow again would be the answer. And it looks as if its not much of a hollow, as in very deep.

So here is another question...
How do you measure one of these to figure the bevel angles of each side, and what is proper?
Like how 17 to 18 degrees is best on a Western.

Originally Posted by Gasman

How do you measure one of these to figure the bevel angles of each side, and what is proper?
Like how 17 to 18 degrees is best on a Western.

No idea but you wouldn't change the Ura angle as it shouldn't be worn. The omote will wear down as you hone but will remain serviceable a long time.

Dunno if this is of help Jerry ?
https://sharprazorpalace.com/advance...vel-angle.html

I agree that the Ura changing would be pretty minimal.