Thread: Does a double shoulder sometimes start out going all the way to the edge?

My general rule of thumb is to use the least aggressive method first.

If you do not have the necessary tools/skills then send it out to a pro.

Your razor will thank you.

Just my 2¢

Thanks for the affirmation @Euclid440! Ya, that's what I would have thought, but after seeing new razors with stabilizers near the edge and how some (like Filarmonicas) do tend to taper to the back when new ...the lack of honewear here gave me doubts like, hm, maybe somehow this is on purpose? But ya, heavy hand and/or tape makes more sense because this one I can't really see how you could hone it as is whereas the No 62 I started the thread with was clearly usable, just couldn't tell if it was that way new or had been reshaped.

Yup, this is what the heel half looks like originally.

Originally Posted by HomeAwayFromHone

Thanks for the affirmation @Euclid440! Ya, that's what I would have thought, but after seeing new razors with stabilizers near the edge and how some (like Filarmonicas) do tend to taper to the back when new ...the lack of honewear here gave me doubts like, hm, maybe somehow this is on purpose? But ya, heavy hand and/or tape makes more sense because this one I can't really see how you could hone it as is whereas the No 62 I started the thread with was clearly usable, just couldn't tell if it was that way new or had been reshaped.

I’ve seen too many tapered heels and on new or near-new razors for this to be a coincidence. I think that the heel width is thinner to keep it from sticking out of the bottom of the scales if the scales are curved. If the blade is too wide for curved scales, the heel will be the first to protrude. I have a couple of beefy NOS Filly 14s that the heels get pretty close. This would mean that the blade is made to fit the scales and not the reverse. That makes sense if the scales are pre-made by a third party and you try to get the widest blade into them.

I've seen it a million ways to Sunday on NOS vintage and new production. As long as the blade keep the same geometry from spine to edge and the shoulder does not protrude it's not an issue. I have old Mappins where the shoulder takes up 1/10 of the razor and is ground 1/4 hollow and comes straight to the edge. No issues honing. Same with some NOS Rudolf Grah's and others. You just have to evaluate when you hone it. If you get to the point you've reduced the blade width by 1/4" on a full hollow then you have honed up into the belly and should really look at a regrind or a new razor