Thread: Shumate cracked

Updates with this razor, after the first honing session and the razor felt smooth and silky for 1/4 of a pass. I finished off the shave with extra stroping a decided dull feeling razor.
My thoughts; the smile of this razor makes lots of rolling necessary and each part of the blade seas less time on the hone with more pressure on each section of blade.

Hone session 2 ; back to honing under running water, finished at nanawa 8 super, using pasted canvas caused the edge to look chippy under cheep USB microscope. Back to the hones, sanded the passed canvas and edge looks more uniform through out after the Strops. It Tree tops the finest arm hair with no resistance, let's see if the edge lasts a handful of shaves or just 1/4 pass again.

I had a pipe razor that was doing that. After looking reeeaal close, I could see microscopic pores all over the blade, extending thru the bevel. The steel was rotten thru n thru. It'd hone up but edge would crumble like you describe.

Update; free shumate toungsteel razor. Can you get a lasting edge on it?

Got through 1.2 passes before it starts to miss hair..
Went back to my folding kamasori, it sits on the hone dead flat and is easy to maneuver. I honed it like an normal razor. Interestingly with the narrow tang it needs more than minimum stroping pressure.

Back to honing the shumate, used same procedure but with 2 layers of electrical tape. The bevel is noticably smaller. Used one hand rolling and thought about just keeping the spine on the stone.

The topping arm hair test is way werse, bends the finest and makes sound on the middle stuff.

Will is shave ok?

Originally Posted by mattnat

Back to honing the shumate, used same procedure but with 2 layers of electrical tape. The bevel is noticably smaller. Used one hand rolling and thought about just keeping the spine on the stone.

The topping arm hair test is way werse, bends the finest and makes sound on the middle stuff.

Will is shave ok?

Test the edge of the whole area to pass the basic test, and then shave. If there is only an uncertain edge state, it is difficult to enjoy a shave.

I remember comments that the shoemates are quite hard, would you expect that they would take many more laps at each stone?

Originally Posted by mattnat

I remember comments that the shoemates are quite hard, would you expect that they would take many more laps at each stone?

It is recommended that you first learn to test and understand the edge state. Then you can correct your razor edge to the best state. The following web pages can be referred to for learning.
https://shavinguniverse.com/edge-pro...sment-methods/

There is this thread that has a lot of pictures. The absolute in honing is the bevel must truly make a perfect apex the whole length of the edge. A very dull edge looks more like a U, to get it where it can shave it needs to be a V. I asses that with a loupe. Looking straight down on the point of the apex. Any sparkle or a solid white line and it is a no go.
Sometimes with old razors them is invisible damage to the steel right at the edge. When you hone it, it no longer has structural strength and crumbles very quickly. Sometimes that resolves after a couple of tries at honing, other times not fast enough to make it seem salvageable.
https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...ggestions.html

It worked! Silky light WTG and XTG. I need to work on skin stretching ATG but I like the razor now,

So many variables! Was it the one layer of tape making a better angle ? The
Slightly different honing approach or getting down to fresh steel?

That was a ride.

Matt

Hay all

I decided to refresh after 2 shaves when shaving was getting not great. then test tested with flywraping thread on kitchen skale... Any guesses what happened? Some part of the edge were good and some were way bad. Also when I looked along the edge with cheep USB 40/1000 microscope I found round divots is the edge. It took forever to get most of the divots out at 1000 grit and tried more pressure with a finger on the trouble spot and tore a chunk out of the edge( vue on 40/1000 magnification only) it was thumb pad test well at low grit.

Back to bevel set again and after many many stokes I started to wonder if it matters. Proceeded up through the stones and strops and after a ok ish shave wanted to check in with you all.

I'm lapping the stones before use and using shapton GS hr 1000/4000 and nanawa super 8000.

I still have the worn in latego diy strop that seems to work the best for me but have not tried a big name model to compare.

The below pic is 1000 magnification of the chip after a shave and the the other pic is the japanese razor with a edge that is good for couple more shaves. The japanese edge looks way more consistent at other points as well.

Maybe it is my skin with rolling x vrs the with a dead flat razor.
The least consistent parts of the edge are under the crack.
It doesn't seem more flexible but who knows.

Bread knife or live with the imperfect?

Matt