Thread: Tuf-Glide question

Tuff Glide is very nice stuff.

However, it smells funny and costs a lot.

I now use sewing machine oil, purchased from my sail cloth supplier, Sailrite, and it works great on the blade.

I rinse the blade in the hottest tap water for 30 seconds, then dry it thoroughly--making sure there is *no* lather or film left on it.

Then I use a Q-tip or tissue to wipe it with sewing machine oil. Haven't had any problems.

I got 32 oz for $10.00. This will last practically forever.


Oh, also, the sewing machine oil removes leftover adhesive from electrical tape. Just disolves it. It also cleans the gold wash without removing any of the gold.

If you are diligent, you can get ALL the dirt out of the old pivot pin area by dripping in lots of sewing machine oil, then rotating the blade in and out of the scales, then soaking up the oil with tissue, and then repeating.

I did this with my gold bug over the course of a week and and the scales became so clear at the pivot pin that I could see through into the tang and pin clearly.

It also makes most scales look nice when wiped on, and cannot harm plastic or celluloid because it is formulated for sewing machines which have both metal and plastic parts.

It does not absorb very well into waxy films, so be sure to remove any soap film from your lather.

Thanks for this post, and thanks Toolart. I was going to purhcase some tuff-glide for myselft, and then I read your post. I also have some sewing machine oil from Sailrite on board that I will now be using on my razors.

Yes, thanks for that - it's good to know that there's another option for once my Tuf-Glide has gone.

I use Tuf-Glide on knives that i restore and go into a display, I also found out that the product should never contact skin, so I started using Microcrystalline wax, it is safe on every material including your skin as it is a neutral product, there are different names that make it, Renaissance Wax in England (available at most shaving stores) and another called Conservator's Wax and both work very well. I still use Tuf-Glide but never on a straight razor edge (yes to the pivot pin area) since the maker's do not recommend it. All the other idea's regarding oiling your razor are also great idea's, i also use 100% mineral oil daily as it is clean and safe on skin. Tuf-Glide is one of the best products i have used to date and you could never waste money buying some, there are so MANY applications!

Goodtann

SheffieldShaver,

I have used TufGlide as my daily protectant on all my razors for the last three (3) years, with no problems to my skin at all.

I think the warning is to do with the kerosene/naptha-like solvent that TufGlide is dissolved in; this soon evaporates off the blade after application.

I live in an old, cold Victorian house, about a hundred yards away from the English Channel; the house has no central heating and leaky sash windows.

Despite all that, my TufGlide treated blades have remained spotless.

I also use it on my shotguns and rifles, and these too have remained spotless

For me, it is a super product

Have fun !

Bets regards

Russ

Originally Posted by PhatMan

SheffieldShaver,

I have used TufGlide as my daily protectant on all my razors for the last three (3) years, with no problems to my skin at all.

I think the warning is to do with the kerosene/naptha-like solvent that TufGlide is dissolved in; this soon evaporates off the blade after application.

I live in an old, cold Victorian house, about a hundred yards away from the English Channel; the house has no central heating and leaky sash windows.

Despite all that, my TufGlide treated blades have remained spotless.

I also use it on my shotguns and rifles, and these too have remained spotless

For me, it is a super product

Have fun !

Bets regards

Russ

I also use Tuf Glide on all of my razors and have done so for several years. Once a year, around Father's Day, Jr, Carrie and I go through the collection of over 300 razors. We inspect them for rust and give them another coat of TG. Each year we find one, maybe two that have some small rusting. Not bad for the size of the collection.

What we need to remember is that our skin oils are a major contributor to rusting metals. After each time we handle a razor (knife, gun or other metal items) we should wipe off all area we touched to be sure we remove all skin oils. Be sure to do this before Tuf Gliding your blades. Renaissance Wax is another good product to protect metal. When using this product also be sure to remove all skin oils before applying. If we don't get the blades clean before applying the Tuf Glide or the Ren Wax the oils will be trapped under the protectant and still cause rust. Alcohol on a soft cloth will aid in cleaning the metal.

TufGlide is for long-term storage with a coat of oil on top of it. Hot water and soap easily removes it when you are ready to put the razor back into rotation. And a drop of oil on the pivot is adviseable anytime. I've been collecting since 1968 and never had an issue with rust. I feel that TufGlide adds a high degree of rust insurance to my collection.

I coat the whole blade, pivot and wipe it off good. It is a microbonding stuff which is a dry protectant. I recommend to wash hands after applying. My shavers are treated as well as my displays with no rust nor ill effects!

You can go to you local sporting goods store and look in the hunting/firearms section, they will have a silicone cloth. Just wipe the blade down with it, works fine. It's used for protecting blued firearms, which are also prone to rusting very quickly.

I use Tuf-Glide to lubricate the pivot of my razors after using them. It comes in a small bottle with a needle applicator. The one I have has lasted 2+ years. Of course I don't use it every time I shave with one of my razors.

For the blade itself, I use Camelia oil when I am storing a razor for any length of time.

I think some SRP members have been known to apply a light coat of mineral oil on their razors.

Before applying any lubricant to the pivot or blade of my razor, however, I strop it 15-20 times on both the fabric and the leather. This removes any residue from the blade and helps dry it off--both of which can cause corrosion.