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Thread: Razor Stiffness

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    Member tazz's Avatar
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    Default Razor Stiffness

    Hi all, I was just wondering, as I consider myself fairly new to straights, what is the differences in blade stiffness? I know this is a pretty general question but I have read some posts where people talk about getting stiffer blades as they are not happy with the ones they are currently shaving with. My setup right now is a Dovo with a 5/8 blade that's regular steel double hollow ground. I just picked up an older 6/8 hollow ground, off that auction site that I truley dislike, and have not shaved with it yet as it needs some work. Well enough of the gripes about Ebay. I know that here are different grinds and different and different blade styles but how do they relate to blade stiffness?

    Thanks,
    Dan

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    tazz,

    One goes from the stiffest, the wedge, which is also typically the oldest razor to full hollow or singing razor, the most flexible and probably the most modern grind. Picture a cross section of a razor's blade and the wedge will look almost like an isosceles triangle with just a slight concavity at the long legs to enable honing without having to whet away tremendous amounts of steel to get to the edge. As grinding devices and techniques evolved, more and more steel was removed from the long legs of that isosceles triangle, creating a greater and greater amount of concavity or hollow grind. The progression went from wedge, to 1/4 hollow, to 1/2 hollow, to full hollow with many finer differentiations along the way.

    Each of these reductions in the thickness of the blade were testaments to the skill of the razor maker and the improvement in steels and heat treating. What manufacturers like TI and Dovo sell are typically the full hollow or singing blades. "Singing" because you can hear the blade cut whiskers. (Personally I think it is more of a grumble, but that is not nearly as poetic)

    For every shaver there is an opinion as to which blade profile suits his face the best. I have some newly made singing blades which work very well; however, I prefer the heavier 1/2 hollows which "complain" less about the work they do and seem to zip through my stubble with greater ease. Greater ease actually? I don't know. The process with the heavier grind blades just seems to be more felicitious

    So there you go: one shaver's opinion. Good shaving,

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    Life is short, filled with Stuff joke1176's Avatar
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    Don't forget the different steel types! I have a few hollows that feel and sound almost like 1/2 hollows... and some hollows that sing like a canary but feel stiff as a wedge...ahem...Sta-Sharp...

    Oh, I also have a few 1/4 hollows that grumble pretty good when stropping and shaving too.

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    Member tazz's Avatar
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    Hi Bruce,

    Thanks for your speedy reply, you answered some good questions for me. I will have to get some different styles of razors and experiment and see which is best for me as I have only used the full hollow ground Dovo. I feel that it is not doing the job for my personal preferences, I can see my bank account draining now. My other question is what is the difference in size, 4/8 to 5/8 to 6/8 etc. and how does that relate to my other question? I've done alot of research on this but sometimes I just need to hear things in layman's terms. I guess that finding a razor that's admirably suited to the task is what it's all about.

    Thanks again,
    Dan

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    Enjoying a bit of timor
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    I'm a bit over the grumbling of a razor.. razors shouldn't grumble.. they should sing!

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    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    You will most likely find that, sharpened well, most blade styles will provide a great shave. Some just feel better doing the job. The weight, the balance, the toe, the heel, they all factor in. You should try at least a couple of different styles/shapes and see which works for you. To keep the playing field level, the best appraisal requires well-honed blades.

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    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    the blade material will also affect the razor's stiffness

    the grind is only one factor i think, and many people prefer hollow over wedge, and many don't care. check out this unscientific poll http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...reference.html
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    Last edited by hoglahoo; 07-20-2008 at 08:29 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoglahoo View Post
    the blade material will also affect the razor's stiffness

    the grind is only one factor i think, and many people prefer hollow over wedge, and many don't care. check out this unscientific poll http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...reference.html
    Are you just showing off your Ubuntu OS with that screen shot

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    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    I was too lazy to crop it - when I post XP screenshots I do try to cut out the offending brand though

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    You asked about the blade width which can vary from under half an inch to over an inch.

    The most common is the 5/8" and the one which people usually start with.

    Usually, the narrower blade (3/8" or 4/8")is easier to manoeuvre in tight corners, especially under the nose.

    The 5/8" is the most common and I suppose it's the most popular and suits the average face and average beard.

    The 6/8" and larger are a little heavier and therefore tend to cut through a heavier beard more easily with less pressure needing to be applied by the shaver. In addition, the wider blades hold more lather on the blade between wipes or washes. Most barbers will purchase a larger blade for this reason. Many experienced straight razor users tend to favour this slightly wider blade. But ofcourse they know how to manoeuvre the blade easily.

    Having said all this, the first and most important thing is to ensure the blade is razor sharp. The blade weight, width, style, grind and metal type are all features like choosing a car. Your first concern should be to make sure the vehicle will actually take you from A to B. So whatever you purchase, ensure it is described as ready to shave and as such treat it with respect as it will be very sharp.

    Most men new to the straight razor, start with a 5/8" fully hollow ground carbon steel blade with a rounded end. This is because the end will not nick you whilst you learn and the rest of the specification works well for most beards. Also, they are quite easy to trade if you decide you want to try a different make or model later.

    Hope this helps. I can remember how confusing it all was to me when I first started many years ago. I still keep finding and trying blades of a type I have not used before and they all seem to have some merits and weaknesses. Eventually though you will end up with your own favourite that for you is sheer perfection. It's then that you drop it and have to start all over again.
    Last edited by English; 07-20-2008 at 10:06 AM.

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