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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenneyty View Post
    I just need to figure out how to do my flash remotely and I can suspend it over the top of the light box.
    One way is to use the camera's built-in flash to trigger a slave flash (or your main flashgun with a cheap slave adapter.)

    You may have to experiment with exposure settings, but that's not a huge problem in this scenario.

  2. #12
    Senior Member kenneyty's Avatar
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    Hmmm. I have the Nikon 600 flash. I know it has some remote capability. guess I'll have to *gasp* read the manual.

    And now looking at Ray's thread again, I see that my brain has been leaking. I was keeping my f-stops down in the 2-4 range to increase depth of field- someone there said that was backwards and I should be shooting at around f11. I guess I'll have to reread my Understanding Exposure book again now that I have proper lighting.

    *sigh* too much good knowledge out there, and I have far too many hobbies. Can't I just retire at 30 and become a permanent student of life?

  3. #13
    French Toast Please! sicboater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenneyty View Post
    Hmmm. I have the Nikon 600 flash. I know it has some remote capability. guess I'll have to *gasp* read the manual.

    And now looking at Ray's thread again, I see that my brain has been leaking. I was keeping my f-stops down in the 2-4 range to increase depth of field- someone there said that was backwards and I should be shooting at around f11. I guess I'll have to reread my Understanding Exposure book again now that I have proper lighting.
    With the curved background of the light box, you can get away with narrower aperture settings and still have the subject stand out.

    Just focus in or crop so you don't see the walls of the light box like you have been.

    -Rob

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