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Thread: How could this be happening?
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05-11-2009, 09:17 AM #21
This seems to be fairly universal problem when restoring anything made of ferrous metal. I spent a lot of time repairing bodywork & chassis on old cars. What Neil says above is a perfect description of what happens with them when you start to grind away the rust prior to welding or painting.
'Living the dream, one nightmare at a time'
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05-11-2009, 05:41 PM #22
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05-11-2009, 06:26 PM #23
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Thanked: 17I'm in Las Vegas, and I'll I've ever had to do was rinse the blade under hot water, dry well with a towel, and air dry. The warm metal helps dry any residual moisture. I store my razors in an open wood box in my bedroom. I've never had any rust issues.
If you need help getting the razor cleaned up, let me know.
~Jim
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05-11-2009, 06:54 PM #24
Iv used CLR on two old razors a Wade ad Butcher and a Wosty and i never had any problems with it at all. The CLR cleaned it up pretty well and allowed me to make final sanding and polishing moves. Both have been shavers and nother have had any problems yet. that would have been over a month ago. i also use gun oil to keep rust off the blades adn lubricate. both tequniques have been flawless for me.
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05-16-2009, 02:48 AM #25
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Thanked: 317I'm glad you've had good experiences using CLR, but the fact remains that CLR is one of the most caustic substances that can be purchased at the average hardware store. I'd put it right up there with powdered lye.
It IS highly caustic. It IS highly dangerous if not handled correctly. It WILL severely damage carbon steel with too much exposure, such as you might get by soaking a razor in it. This is chemistry 101.
And, please don't take my word for it. Pick up a bottle and read the label. Carbon steel is not on the list of safe surfaces, and there is a mile long list of warnings about ventilation and safe handling. This is dangerous stuff that can cause sever chemical burns.
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05-17-2009, 05:21 AM #26
The hotter the water the better, something I learned from using carbon steel kitchen knives. dry with towel, and air dry. nothing to it. I'm very careful about avoiding the edge with the towel though (or anything except my beard, i suppose) and assume that the linen/cotten side on most strops helps to dry and remove scum from the edge without compromising it, strop technique notwithstanding. I think I've read that this is a very good reason to strop after shaving, at least a few strokes on linen before leather to avoid damaging the leather, but I'm nooB to this.
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05-17-2009, 04:56 PM #27
CLR is the culprit. Not the scrubbing bubbles.
I've been using scrubbing bubbles for a very long time on each of my razors after each and every shave. A spray over the blade and pivot, let it sit for 1 minute, rinse well, towel dry and leve open to further dry.
I've had zero issues with any of my razors. They always keep looking like new.
The CLR on the contrary is nasty stuff. Works great for the intended use and in general can benefit from a nice dillution with water for some projects. I have used CLR dilluted with water for cleaning up DE razors and it worked like a champ. But dilluted with lots of water and very short time of soaking.
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05-18-2009, 04:34 AM #28
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05-18-2009, 07:00 AM #29
Hi,
After wiping with paper, and air-drying for an hour or so, I heartily recommend using Sentry Solutions 'TuffCloth' to coat the steel surfaces.
I live less than 50 yards from the sea, and all my carbon steel razors have remained rust free (so far !)
Best regards
Russ
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05-18-2009, 07:10 AM #30
Calamusink,
I forgot to mention that a some of the formulations of CLR type cleaners contain phosphoric acid, and this indeed can cause the grey dulling you have see.
The metal finish 'Parkerizing' uses phosphoric acid in the process.
Parkerizing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
best regards
Russ