Thread: W&B's Edges Are Weak (IMHO, of course)

Thank you for talking down W&B. Can you please keep this thread going until prices drop and I can buy a couple more?

IMHO WB wedges are great candidates for a double taped spine micro bevel. It gives the softer sheffield steel a bit more strength and it is a quick touch up vs moving a pound of metall off the blade when rehoning.
I can trade solligens for WBs and take those nasty clunkers off your hands
Mike

Originally Posted by Kingfish

IMHO WB wedges are great candidates for a double taped spine micro bevel. It gives the softer sheffield steel a bit more strength and it is a quick touch up vs moving a pound of metall off the blade when rehoning.
I can trade solligens for WBs and take those nasty clunkers off your hands
Mike

This actually restarts an old topic but what you say here does not make any sense. How can you possibly think that by thickening up the spine with tape and decreasing the angle between the thickness of the spine and the cutting edge - that it will give you a finer edge. It just doesn't happen that way and the world is actually round - not flat

Taping the spine is like cutting all the rubber off one spot on a tire so that your car won't roll away when parked.

Originally Posted by John Crowley

This actually restarts an old topic but what you say here does not make any sense. How can you possibly think that by thickening up the spine with tape and decreasing the angle between the thickness of the spine and the cutting edge - that it will give you a finer edge. It just doesn't happen that way and the world is actually round - not flat

Taping the spine is like cutting all the rubber off one spot on a tire so that your car won't roll away when parked.

Actually there seems to be some historical precedent to a lifted spine, even a device to lift the spine to hone true wedges, we are still looking for definite proof but the evidence is a little compelling...
That aside, there is another reason for 1 layer of tape when honing these oldies, imagine a rutted old road (the spine) and every time you try to drive down (hone) the road (the edge) you keep getting pulled into the same old ruts...
Now along comes a road grater (1 layer of tape) and smooths the road (the spine) which now makes it much easier to steer clear of the obstacles in the road....

I never advise more than one layer unless you are doing serious restoration but on these razors it helps get a good even bevel going ...

Originally Posted by John Crowley

This actually restarts an old topic but what you say here does not make any sense. How can you possibly think that by thickening up the spine with tape and decreasing the angle between the thickness of the spine and the cutting edge - that it will give you a finer edge. It just doesn't happen that way and the world is actually round - not flat

Taping the spine is like cutting all the rubber off one spot on a tire so that your car won't roll away when parked.

Hi John,
Please don't put words in my mouth. I did not say finer edge. It would be a little more obtuse so a little stronger. Definition of a good edge is to make an angle as fine as possible without deterioration. The OP was how they don't hold up as well as others. It works for me.
M

Originally Posted by ndw76

Thank you for talking down W&B. Can you please keep this thread going until prices drop and I can buy a couple more?

I had my suspicions along these lines as well....


Aside from all the fuss, Pumas and Dorko's are nice looking razors, but edge retention? Maybe not all they are cracked up to be....



Back on-topic: I guess you can't have it all. Soft steel may not hold an edge as long as "hard" steel, but the Sheffields certainly feel super-smooth on the face. The newest TI's ("hard" steel) have been reported by some to give a somewhat uncomfortable shave.

So, you pays you money, and you takes yer chances....


P.S.- I stil say my W&Butchered holds it's edge forever and a day, so I am not in any way agreeing with the opinions held above.

I don't want to insult anyones technique, but I alternate in rotation some very light hollows in my main stable of wb wedges. It is easy when you get use to shaving with a wedge to go at it with abandon, and I could wipe out almost any blade with one shave if I do that. It is very easy to get relaxed about technique cause the things just plow through heavy beard. That is just me your milage may vary.
M

Originally Posted by Seraphim

I had my suspicions along these lines as well....


Aside from all the fuss, Pumas and Dorko's are nice looking razors, but edge retention? Maybe not all they are cracked up to be....



Back on-topic: I guess you can't have it all. Soft steel may not hold an edge as long as "hard" steel, but the Sheffields certainly feel super-smooth on the face. The newest TI's ("hard" steel) have been reported by some to give a somewhat uncomfortable shave.

So, you pays you money, and you takes yer chances....


P.S.- I stil say my W&Butchered holds it's edge forever and a day, so I am not in any way agreeing with the opinions held above.

Didn't you do a side by side comparison with a Sheffield under your microscope and find it to be superior to other blades. I seem to remember a thread on it. I have no problems, and have a dozen or so vintage W&B's.

Originally Posted by Seraphim

I had my suspicions along these lines as well....


Aside from all the fuss, Pumas and Dorko's are nice looking razors, but edge retention? Maybe not all they are cracked up to be....



Back on-topic: I guess you can't have it all. Soft steel may not hold an edge as long as "hard" steel, but the Sheffields certainly feel super-smooth on the face. The newest TI's ("hard" steel) have been reported by some to give a somewhat uncomfortable shave.

So, you pays you money, and you takes yer chances....


P.S.- I stil say my W&Butchered holds it's edge forever and a day, so I am not in any way agreeing with the opinions held above.

Fuss or not, my Puma 222 holds its edge just fine. I'm not able to comment on the longevity as compared to other Germans because it's newer, but I can say that it's lasted longer than the one W&B that I have left in my rotation.

To answer the question about which grinds, I've had full hollow, about 1/4 hollow (which is what I have left) and near wedge. I think Kingfish is onto something re: bevel establishment. If it could be made wider, perhaps it would hold up better. I wasn't really impressed with the wedge I had (just sold it).

I have three w&b's that I got from Glenn.. All three have shaved great.. And about a year later are now just at the point where they need to be rehoned.


dw