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Thread: Can this razor be saved?
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11-03-2009, 07:36 PM #11
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Posts
- 24
Thanked: 2
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11-03-2009, 07:39 PM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Arizona
- Posts
- 325
Thanked: 127I hate it when some things are so darn obvious...
Ray
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11-03-2009, 07:51 PM #13
At first glance I think your gonna need a regrind.
If you look at the shoulder and the notch you can see that the angles do not match up. IE too much wear. You may need a regrind. In lieu of that 2 or 3 layers of tape but that may make the edge too thin and may chip.
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11-05-2009, 06:20 PM #14
Bogus! If you put tape on the spine, (a recent trend the psycology of I have yet to understand), it will just thicken up the bevel on an already honed out razor. The only way to save that razor would be to sent it to Ross Cutlery in Los Angeles to be reground or to find someone with the equipment to do it for you. That razor is honed out. Sorry for being blunt but why would I blow smoke?
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11-05-2009, 08:09 PM #15
Well, I agree that a regrind is a more elegant solution. I can see why taping would result in a thicker bevel, but it would also result in a narrower bevel and make it easier to hone to a keen edge. However, it depends on how thick the bevel is currently. If the razor was mine (I do own a couple that are hone out), I would tape it and see how it shaves. If it didn't deliver a comfortable shave, I'd probably trash it (or use it as a bread knife).
Last edited by radaddict; 11-05-2009 at 08:32 PM.
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11-05-2009, 08:24 PM #16
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11-05-2009, 08:34 PM #17
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11-05-2009, 08:42 PM #18
"I can see why taping would result in a thicker bevel, but it would also result in a narrower bevel"
Nope still confused bud...lol
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11-05-2009, 08:44 PM #19
Let me see if I can explain all this:
The more hone wear, the thinner the spine and the wider the bevel. So, when honing, you're honing more steel and, as the spine gets thinner, the edge moves closer to the spine. The closer the edge moves to the spine, the thicker the steel and the more difficult it is get a keen edge. Taping the spine will make it easier to get a keen edge, but because the edge or bevel is thick (and I'm talking steel thickness, not bevel width), it doesn't shave well. Sharp thin steel will cut more effectively than equally sharp thick steel.
Let's talk about bevel angles. Thin steel will be honed to a narrow bevel (low bevel angle) and a certain sharpness. Thick steel can be honed to the same sharpness, but the bevel angle will be wide (as viewed from the side). Consider that the average 6/8 razor may have a bevel angle of 18 degrees and delivers a comfortable shave. Now, keep the same sharpness and 6/8 blade width, but widen the bevel angle to 30 degrees (making the spine thicker). Shaving with that razor won't be easy. You'll have to compensate for the increased bevel angle by increasing the blade to skin angle. We all know the discomfort that comes with raising the spine too far beyond the 30 degree optimum angle.
To explain (or muddy the waters) further: The razor geometry is complex. You have the blade width, spine thickness and bevel angle all working together. You may shave with the razor at a 30 degree angle to your face, but the angle to your face at the bevel is much lower (sigh... I wish I had some diagrams). So, if you have a wide bevel angle you will need to raise the blade angle much higher to achieve the same bevel to face angle that you got with the razor with a low bevel angle. (good god... the pellet with the poison's in the vessel with the pestle. The chalice from the palace has the brew that is true. - sorry, obscure reference to an old Danny Kaye movie )
I fear that this is still clear as mud, but I hope that helps.Last edited by radaddict; 11-05-2009 at 09:15 PM.
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11-05-2009, 08:47 PM #20
I see, but surely if the bevel angle is correct a good shave should result? I totaly understand what your saying, but a wedge shaves divinely if honed right