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Thread: Dealing with rust
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04-08-2010, 11:29 AM #1
Dealing with rust
I've noticed my razor has started to get little spots of what looks like rust (I'm pretty sure it's rust). They've appeared on the tang and back.
I also clean it off properly, dry it and then apply camellia oil.
Is there anything else I can do.
Also what can I do to deal with the small spots that have formed.
Thanks in advance.
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04-08-2010, 12:51 PM #2
Small spots like that can be taken off with MAAS and a Q-Tip. Its usually because moisture has got at the blade, making it tarnish slightly like that.
What you're doing now sounds fine to me, but something you can also try is to put a couple of packs of silica gel in with your razors. This stuff takes the moisture out of the air and works really well at preventing rust or tarnish.
Good luck and keep us posted!
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04-08-2010, 01:52 PM #3
Another tip, after you wipe the blade down try not to touch the metal. The salts and oils on your skin may also cause rust. Some people have more of an issue with this than others. I am one that has this issue.
“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)
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jbsanders (04-15-2014)
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04-08-2010, 02:16 PM #4
Hmm...perhaps this is what I'm doing wrong. But then again, I don't really touch the areas of my blades that are rusting.
I've tried everything, but one razor I have in particular really really wants to rust. It's my Filarmonica 13. I dry it, oil it, I've tried everything and still, there are occasional tiny rust spots a few days later. Lucky for me, the damn spots are either next to the gold wash or approaching the edge (sarcasm, of course)...
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04-08-2010, 04:48 PM #5
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04-08-2010, 05:21 PM #6
+1 on the MAAS+qtip and silica gel.
Also pick up a can of WD-40 and some micro fiber shop rags.
Machine shops, bike shops and sporting goods shops have silicon cloths
that are excellent for this purpose. Carpenters have
problems with rust on their saws so woodworking shops
are also a good place to look.
WD-40 may be the best trick for preventing rust.
There is an outside chance that you have a bad apple
set of old celluloid scales that are breaking down and
triggering corrosion so tell us more about the razor
scales. An envelope with bicarbonate of soda in with
the silica gel can help (but not cure) scale rot.
RustFree™ from A.G. Russell for storage
is a good thing. It is a bit too much for overnight
where mineral oil and WD-40 can be best. I mention
RustFree because the instructions are clear that you
must dry the steel first which is so very important.
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04-08-2010, 05:30 PM #7
Although WD-40 is cheap and common, it is full of solvents and far too low-viscosity, IME.
For a few extra bucks, pick up some god quality gun oil (RemOil or Hoppe's, etc.) which is high-viscosity, anti-rust, and very stable. It won't gum up like WD-40, because it is made for gun actions, etc.
YMMV, but I have found this to be the best stuff for oiling razors.
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niftyshaving (04-09-2010)
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04-08-2010, 07:27 PM #8
I like vaseline a lot. High viscosity. I don't worry about it drying out or losing effectiveness if left a month or two between shaves. Cheap, and easy to find.
I've been on other threads where vaseline was not well thought of. Never understood that. So, will let others comment pro and con on vaseline should they want to.
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04-08-2010, 07:34 PM #9
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04-08-2010, 07:40 PM #10
I had someone from another country say that vaseline holds water, and I checked several USA sources. 100% petroleum. Possibly, it holds water elsewhere.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly
Petroleum jelly is a flammable, semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons, having a melting-point usually ranging from a little below to a few degrees above 75°C (167°F). It is colorless, or of a pale yellow color (when not highly distilled), translucent, and devoid of taste and smell when pure. It does not oxidize on exposure to the air, and is not readily acted on by chemical reagents. It is insoluble in water.Last edited by LarryAndro; 04-08-2010 at 07:43 PM.
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Desdinova (04-09-2010)