Thread: Custom Scales For Commercial/Refurbished Blade?

A master wood carver would probably be able to make scales if you gave him the originals. However, as with most artisan work, the final "fit and finish" will be vastly better if it's done by someone with direct and relevant experience. Professional razor restorers, like the guys found here, will also be able to make it a good shaver with proper balance and a sweet edge.

A stone mason isn't exactly a sculptor and vice versa. They may work in similar media and I'm sure they can do each others job in a pinch..... but not to the same level of expertise.


Here's a beautiful wood rescale done for me by a site member.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-re-scale.html

I'm sure somebody with carving experience can make scales easily, but it will probably take them few attempts to get the hang of fitting them properly. And then there's the match to the blade and not making them too heavy, or too bulky, or too awkward for stropping (some don't learn even after allegedly 20 years of 'experience', so it's more of a matter of wanting to learn).

OK, thanks, everyone, for sharing your thoughts.

Now. I don't suppose there's a scales expert who is particularly good at carving designs into the side of the scales...

If you know someone, please don't keep it to yourself; if you ARE someone, please feel free to reply or PM me: I realise the commissioning of a piece should go under the appropriate forum; but I have some questions I'd like to ask before I go soliciting an actual piece.

well just abought anyone with good handworking skills could cobble some scales togeather. it just 3 pieces of wood with 2 holes in them after all. getting what you want and being a joy to use is something else , what do you have in mind?

Your best bet would be to have the wooden scales made by someone that's involved in straight razors and then send the finished wooden scales out to your wood carving specialist guy. When he's done carving them he can send them back to the original razor person who can then assemble everythng. Unless you find someone that excels at both.

Originally Posted by Maximilian

Your best bet would be to have the wooden scales made by someone that's involved in straight razors and then send the finished wooden scales out to your wood carving specialist guy. When he's done carving them he can send them back to the original razor person who can then assemble everythng. Unless you find someone that excels at both.

I was going to suggest having the scales carved first (assuming old scales were provided for template) , and then sent to a razor specialist for assembly.

Is there a reason to chose one before the other?

Originally Posted by Magpie

I was going to suggest having the scales carved first (assuming old scales were provided for template) , and then sent to a razor specialist for assembly.

Is there a reason to chose one before the other?

Although my experience in re-scaling is pretty limited, I can tell you that I've had much better luck with alignment when I can drill the holes and do primary shaping while the two main pieces are still one. I then split them with the band saw and do the finishing work, knowing the holes are aligned.

I'm sure there are arguments the other way, and of course techniques like temporarily binding the two halves together to drill are possibilities, but I like knowing that the holes will be aligned.

I would imagine it would be more practical to hand a wood carver two basically completed halves, and have him do the work on those. In addition, since you wouldn't be doing any more shaping to the scales, he could work within the final proportions of the piece.

My two cents.

Fred

Originally Posted by Maximilian

Your best bet would be to have the wooden scales made by someone that's involved in straight razors and then send the finished wooden scales out to your wood carving specialist guy. When he's done carving them he can send them back to the original razor person who can then assemble everything. Unless you find someone that excels at both.

Personally I think maybe you should listen to what one of the real experts said,,

What you asking to be done is really rather easy,,I would give the exact same advice...
The only people that "MIGHT" posses both skill sets that I can think of are Robert Williams (he does scrimshaw work, don't know if he does relief carving) and John/Shutterbug (he does intricate silver engraving , don't know if he does relief carving)

Other then that you need to do what Max and I both are telling you is to have the scales made with the "Knowledge" that they are going to be carved so the the scale maker can thin them up for balance and flex them after he gets them back, by sanding from the inside...
But they do need to be shaped and drilled first...

This is an interesting thread, and since I have some relevant experience I'll chip in with a few personal thoughts.

This looks to me to be a three part process: 1) get the scale blanks made, 2) pass them on for carving, then 3) return them to a razor man for fitting. Part 3 isn't as trivial as it might appear - with some blades it will call for a good deal of lateral thinking.

The blanks should be made a little beefier than normal since material is going to be removed. That will affect how much they will flex.

The carving design shouldn't introduce any pronounced weak spots, not so much because they might break although that's a consideration of course, but because the bend will become uneven. I imagine a regular repeat design in shallow relief wouldn't cause undue trouble, though the scales might decide to bend into a series of facets if there's work all the way across the grain. Actually, that might be an interesting feature. A metal liner might be a way to get around that one. Here's a link to a carved razor: note that there are no obvious weaknesses across the line of the bend (also that they are plastic ...)
Klauberg, C. & Bros. "Damascene" 5/8 - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Material. The timbers favoured by woodcarvers tend to be bland in appearance with little figure. This is a good thing: fancy wood and fancy carving lead to visual confusion, especially on small objects. Probably most people here would agree that it's best to go for a hard dense material, which often means rosewoods of some sort, but I don't think that's a good option here because of the visuals, and the fact that most woods of that type are quite spiteful if you try to carve them - bits fall off. I'd be tempted to try African blackwood which supports fine detail well (what does it look like? very black), hard maple (pinkish white), or hornbeam (not far off white). Ivory or bone would be preferable to wood for this project - stronger, will support the detail well, and fairly plain in appearance. Sadly it will also be a good deal harder to work, though.

All the above, needless to say, is just my tuppence worth.

I think this sounds like a really interesting and worthwhile project. The trick will be to find the right people to bring it together.

Originally Posted by gugi

I'm sure somebody with carving experience can make scales easily, but it will probably take them few attempts to get the hang of fitting them properly. And then there's the match to the blade and not making them too heavy, or too bulky, or too awkward for stropping (some don't learn even after allegedly 20 years of 'experience', so it's more of a matter of wanting to learn).

Gugi-please pm me about the "20 yrs experience" so I can avoid. It seems though after 20yrs of doing anything a little rubs off. 20 yrs to not make 2 little pieces of material for a handle..........WOW!!!!