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07-13-2011, 08:37 PM #1
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- Mar 2011
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- Washington DC Metro Area
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- 468
Thanked: 114How to determine if scales are original
When you are looking at vintage razors (at flea markets, the bay, SRP Classifieds, etc.) what do you look for precisely to judge whether scales and pins are original? Said differently, when someone claims that scales are original, how do they know exactly? Thanks.
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07-13-2011, 09:48 PM #2
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- Oct 2010
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- Brewton, Alabama
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- 264
Thanked: 46Excellent question. In a nutshell, unless it is a NOS razor, it can be very difficult. Back in the day, razor scales were replaced just like shoes were taken to the shoe shop to be repared. On razors with factory marking on scales, you could get them replaced with duplicates, and if the proper pins and collers were used, and the barber or whoever did the work was good, who"s to know 50, 60, or 70 years down the road. Many razors were rescaled with fancy cell scales after they were sold. If you have a known razor that would have had the factory trademark on the scales when new, but now has either fancy or plain scales one might assume that it had been rescaled. There are always exceptions to the rule. I have a NOS Case that has fancy stork cell scales. My wifes grandfather bought it new, and I dont think he would have spent the money to get this done. So who knows. I am sure that many of our members know a lot more than I, and could shead more light on this, and correct me if needed. Best Regards and Happy Shaving, wildhog
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The Following User Says Thank You to wildhog For This Useful Post:
diyguy (07-13-2011)
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07-13-2011, 10:11 PM #3
Yea, you really can't be 100% sure unless you have the razor in it's original sealed box. The scales can be changed the same way they were put in, you just need the same pins and washers if those were used and a very basic skill.
Of course when you see modern pins/scales on old razor, or mismatched pins chances are that's not the original job. With some other razors you can tell if the scales look from the period, or not.
BTW the same thing is true of the blades as well - quite often just looking at the lines resulting from the grinding process you can tell that there was regrinding at a later point. And then there is the question of when were the thumbnotches made, esp. the double ones from the 1800s. I've seen people with big egos and small brains claim originality of those with absolutely no evidence to base it on.
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07-13-2011, 10:16 PM #4
A simple way to determine whether your razor has been married to scales from another razor is to compare the pins. If a broken blade has been replaced with a blade from another razor the pin at the pivot point will probably not match the pin at the wedge end. It was much easier to just replace the one pin because whoever did the repinning was probably trying not to deceive anyone, but just match up two broken razors and come up with one usable unit. If the scales have been done by a good restorer both pins have probably been replaced and it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to know if the scales are original. But then, what does it matter if the scales that have been replaced fit the blade and the look is authentic?
Regards - Walt
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07-14-2011, 11:34 AM #5
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- Mar 2011
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- Washington DC Metro Area
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- 468
Thanked: 114Thanks guys. I also see ads claiming "factory edge" or "this razor has never been honed" - how is this determined exactly?
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07-14-2011, 12:31 PM #6
Good replies above to your re-scale question. When I am looking for vintage razors from where ever I am expecting to find used razors. A re-scaled razor, if done professionally, has the patina and history of it's use. That to me says that either the razor was good enough to save or that the cost of re-scaling was preferred over the cost of a replacement razor. I have a few that had one scale replaced with a piece of wood. I like it that way. What I really look to avoid is a razor being sold for a premium price that has been Frankensteined in an effort to get the most money from the sale. Usually the pin or washer on one end will not match the pin on the other end or there will be signs of hammering on the pin. This is not always the case.
Factory edge: Look for an extremely thin bevel and no wear on the spine. It would be very difficult to notice the difference between the first and second honing if the second is done right. The only way to notice the difference is if the honing after the factory was done excessively or improperly.
In both of these questions we are talking about a process that if done properly would be hard to detect unless you knew exactly which scales were originally sold with each blade style. I don't see either as a show stopper if it is undetectable or prices appropriately and within your likes and budget.“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)
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07-16-2011, 05:47 AM #7
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
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- Brisbane, Qld, Australia
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- 378
Thanked: 94If you know the history of the maker you can tell some re-scales.
For example if you take the relatively common Wester Brothers No 34 "De-Fi" razor. The factory scales were celluloid with faux woodgrain, so if you see a De-Fi without a woodgrain set of scales you know it has been re-scaled at some time in its life.
Some rescales that I have found have definite amateur hour look about them, so they're easy to spot too. As others have pointed out a mismatch between the pivot and wedge pins is another tell.
Where it is hard to spot a rescale is when the scales are of the right era and the repinning has been done with some skill.