Thread: How sharp is sharp???

Hi everyone,
I've been shaving for about one month now and I feel that my razor has gotten progressively duller as the days go on. I've sharpened it so that it will pass the wet thumbnail test, it feels smooth and bights in. When I rub it against the skin of my wet thumb, it wants to cut in without sensation from my thumb.
When I try to shave with it, taking all of the beard preparation steps possible, I just can't get a BBS shave.

Should the razor cut every hair in it's path on the first swipe WTG? I only get about 50%

Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Dundee

Originally Posted by Dundee

I've sharpened it so that it will pass the wet thumbnail test, it feels smooth and bights in.

That is a test for whether the bevel is set. It will dull a shave ready edge.

Other than shaving with it, there is not a real good definitive test to say whether a blade is shave ready. Go back to the hones and try to feel a difference in sharpness with your thumbpad, or look for a difference in how it cuts arm hair. When you think it's good try shaving. After some time, you'll learn to tell by feel or some other indicator when the blade is ready to shave test.
It takes practice and experience to get it. Very few people get the hang of it right away. It does take some time to learn.

So... keep at it, and stop dulling the razor on your thumbnail!
Good luck.

I suggest more practice at honing. Any number of variables could be in play here. Talk us through the honing process and we might be able to help. Are you doing the TNT after you have finished honing? I would go back and give it a few more strokes on the hone if you did. Are you stropping after honing? I can ask many more questions, but you need to give more information for anyone to ask the real relevant questions.


Mick

Thanks for the input Gents.
I have set the bevel on a 1000 grit Japanesse water stone. I had some trouble though. The razor laid flat on the hone on one side, but on the other, the blade sat wasn't in full contact with the hone. (The spine was in full contact with the stone, but the two outside edges of the blade were high about .25mm. Enough to create a shadow line.) I tried to flatten this side best I could, it still isn't 100% flat.

I then circular honed 20 times on 1000 grit, followed by 20 laps leading with the edge. Next step was 20 circular passes (each side) on 4000 grit waterstone, and 20 full laps leading with the edge. I don't have a 8000 grit stone, so I just stropped the heck out of it on linen, then leather.

I am guessing that I need to get a 8000 grit stone. For all of the honing and stroping techniques, I have used minimal pressure and I took my sweet time to insure that the razor laid flat.

So what do you folks think that I am having trouble with the most??

Cheers

You do need a higher grit hone.

You probably need to spend more time working the bevel on your 1k as well. It is ok to use pressure when setting a bevel, and unless you're working on a brand new razor, or a razor that was previously shave ready and doesn't need much work, you will probably need more than 20 circles and 20 laps.

As to the warp in your blade you can either do rolling strokes to make contact (which takes some practice to get the muscle memory to do it well) or you can do a bunch of flat strokes, which will take it out eventually but leave you with an uneven bevel. It will be functional, it just won't look quite as pretty.

Agree, for a good shave you will need a higher grit than 4000. What kind of blade is it? Are your hones lapped flat? Either way it has to be sharp at the heel and the tip of the blade. Bevel has to be set at 1000 before you move on to higher grits. If edge is dull at tip, more work on 1000 needed. Good luck.
MIke

The wet thumbnail test, as has been said, is only a test to use early in the honing process of razors that need the bevel set, as it will damage the edge. It is important to know this, which is why I am repeating it after someone else already stated it. You can use it on higher grits too, but it takes work to remove the damage caused by the thumbnail and the amount of work required increases with stone fineness.

I'm going to buck the trend here and suggest that if you are new to honing you put aside the 1K stone and try creating the bevel on the 4K. The reason I am suggesting this is two-fold. First, you'll do less damage less quickly with a 4K hone if there is something wrong with your technique. Second, you'll have to do more work with the 4K hone (it will take more strokes and hence more time) and it is a good way to get plenty of practice in developing good technique, and cementing muscle memory. Just a suggestion though, feel free to ignore it.

One other suggestion - use a magic marker to see where any trouble spots are. Colour in both sides of the bevel with magic marker, then hone using your normal stroke for a few laps. Then take a look at where the marker has or has not worn off. It can be an eye opening experience to experiment with different strokes, angles, pressures, and variations in hand positions using the magic marker, particularly if you use a 4K hone to minimise excessive wear while doing it. The aim is to develop a consistent stroke that hits all parts of the edge evenly (ie evenly abrades the marker on the entire bevel in one stroke per side). Any excess magic marker will wipe off with alcohol.

Good luck,

James.

Great advice Jimbo,
I noticed that having more patience with a high grit hone is a better practice (for a newbie like me) than by moving on to a low grit stone too early and honing with poor technique. I'll rehone with a 1000 and try to set the bevel more next time. Plus, I need to get a 4/8 Stone.

Thanks for the great advice everyone. I appreciate it. I have been having so much fun in the morning, ever since I got into this unique hobby. It's great to have such amazing input from so many different perspectives.

Keep on shavin'
Dundee

With regards to the blade not laying flat on one side, a technique I use for my one blade that has a slight warp, is to lay the blade as poor normal for the honing stroke, but in the process of the stroke I run my finger down the side of the blade. This will (hopefully) place the little extra pressure needed on the blade to ensure contact of the edge to the stone. I advise caution when doing this, as you will get a cut if you do it wrong. Do it right, and you have no fear of being cut as the edge is on the stone.
I have shaved successfully (not comfortably) off a 6k, but I recommend, as the others have said, about going to at least 8k for a true shave ready razor. Higher grits make for a smoother shave if you choose to go beyond 8k. I only go to a C12k (or PHIG is you like). I don't own any of those fancy hones from Shrapton or Naniwa. I'm too cheap for that .


Mick

Coming off a 1k bevel setter, I like to test the entire edge against my arm hair... If the razor will catch and pop a hair the whole length of the edge, then I move onto the 4k.
Magic marker is a good tip, especially if you suspect an uneven grind.