Thread: Are More Expensive Razors That Much Better?

As of this writing, I am still ahead of the game (that is, if taken into account the price of Gillette Sensor Excels at $2 a pice). I really lucked out, buying a box of razors from an antique store, sold a couple, and they paid for the bunch and then some. So far, all I am in it for is $42 for a strop, as included in the box of razors was a two sided barber's hone. Just don't tell the Misses about the $45 I spent on this site for a sweet little 5/8 Army/Navy razor!

Originally Posted by Wattie

Hi Everyone,

I am currently using a Dovo Best Quality and absolutely love it. That being said, I am looking into getting a second razor. I really like the look of the Dovo Flowing on SRD's page, but I have a question.

It is about 3 times the price of a Dovo Best Quality and I am wondering if the performance is that much better and worth the extra money. I suspect the answer is yes and let's be honest I love the way it looks so will probably go that route anyway. What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

Wattie

If you have exactly one razor a second Dovo Best Quality makes a lot of sense
especially because it is working for you.

After two the flood gates open.

More expensive razors can be ground better and have
tighter tolerances and in some cases harder tempering
and more expensive steel.

Some of my $30 antique store razors have the most
incredible grind. These would sell for $500 if they were new.

There is a marvelous Dovo in the monthly give away...
make sure you enter.... I want it but good luck to all.

The care and feeding of some of the thin grinds was beyond
me for a year or two. But they are passing the old guard
in no time with my new hones and new knowledge.

I have a dovo and a TI that I have shaved with, the dovo was not one of their less expensive razors either. The TI out shaves it everytime and it was $50 more.

Originally Posted by ubet

I have a dovo and a TI that I have shaved with, the dovo was not one of their less expensive razors either. The TI out shaves it everytime and it was $50 more.

As you gain experience in your shaving technique and get the factory edges refined by a pro you will be surprised by the difference in what you find now compared to your future experiences but in the end it os more important to enjoy your shaves and have fun.

Originally Posted by MrDavid

I do think there is a pretty significant jump between an entry-level razor like a Dovo Best Quality and a "mid-level" model such as the Bismark, Renaissance, Silver Steel, etc.

Originally Posted by hoglahoo

Are you thinking there is a pretty significant jump in shave quality between the Dovo Best and those others?

Sorry, just saw this question. I think the end shave quality can be about the same. I'm referring more to the difference in build quality, aesthetics, and overall shave experience.

Ace said it well... the end shave might be the same, but the process getting there is much different.

It's also hard to compare new entry-level / high-level versus vintage, as there are so many variables when it comes to vintage razors. My comments were limited to the "budget" new versus "mid/high-level" new.

I agree with many others here that good vintage blades can be the best shavers, regardless of cost. But I read the OP's question to be comparing options for new-production razors.

'An engineer can do for 50 cents what any idiot can do for five dollars'. In razor-speak, getting a first class shave from an inexpensive blade. Inexpensive doesn't neccessarily mean inferior quality. For others, conspicuous consumption is an important factor.

Originally Posted by welshwizard

'An engineer can do for 50 cents what any idiot can do for five dollars'.

True, but a craftsman can create the tangible thing of beauty that the engineer can only dream to draw on paper...

All kidding aside, you are spot on. An apprentice to straight razors such as myself can butcher a shave with the best razor made. A master can shave the hair off a frog's butt with a pocket knife...

Don't know if my question relates to this thread but i was thinking along these lines.

I also have a $90 or so dovo best quality, cheapest one i could fine to start my straight razor hobby. Recently i got a old Sheffield, double grind with an intentional smile. After the restore and new scales i honed it up and to my astonishment the shave was amazing. It redefined what a good shave was compared to the dovo. So assuming that the dovo must need a new and proper honing i went back to the hones. No matter what i do, I've went back to videos by glen to try to figure out where i was going wrong, i cannot get the dovo to shave as well as the Sheffield. So i inferred that the steel must be better in the Sheffield to take an edge and hold it so well. Is this a reasonable assumption?

I can probably guess you answers because i'm thinking the same I'm still doing something different with the two or the something wrong with the dovo blade such as a warp...

Originally Posted by 111Nathaniel

... I can probably guess you answers because i'm thinking the same I'm still doing something different with the two or the something wrong with the dovo blade such as a warp...

What kind of hones are you using? Some razors react better to some hones than others. The Dovo may be of a harder steel than the Sheffield but that is just a guess without actually having them in hand. Many a times the razors from the same country of origin and same manufacturer differ. It seems eachrazor has it's own personality when it comes to honing and shaving. Some are just possessed.

Originally Posted by Joed

\Some are just possessed.

Thats funny, after bevel set just a bbw and coti combo. My progression: First Coti heavy slurry->bbw heavy slurry-> bbw progression to just water->then coti very light slurry-> finally coti just water. The coti is known for it's slow cutting speed, if the dovo is harder steel perhaps my regular honing method just isn't enough to cut it. But under inspection with my 10x magnifying glass i can see the bevel in uneven, wide at the heal, and very thin on the opposite side in the middle. if the bevel is uneven could that cause you not to be able to work directly on the edge?