Thread: If this has been said once it should be said....

Over and over again.

If you have razors that are rarely used and are being stored even if you have them "well protected" inspect them on a regular basis. I usually do a few times a year and yesterday I was doing my usual inspection and to my horror found the celluloid scales on my Bresnick Gold Mandarin starting to deteriorate. Yep, there was this maybe 10mm, thick red splotch on the neck of the razor. I was able to clean it off with Simichrome but it wasn't easy. Luckily no real damage done to the razor but the scales are toast and that razor has really unique celluloid scales. The razor was really well coated with oil and the rust formed anyway probably from the chemicals given off by the celluloid. I've seen this before so have to conclude gassing celluloid will trump normal protection methods.

So once again the moral of the story is check your razors often. (by the way there is a picture of that razor in the razor clubs-daffy ducks)

I can only add, keep the razors in their cardboard boxes.
Cardboard absorbs moisture and allows razors to breathe.

Originally Posted by manah

I can only add, keep the razors in their cardboard boxes.
Cardboard absorbs moisture and allows razors to breathe.

Alex, this is interesting. I have always felt ..... not that I "know" but have assumed ..... that if cell rot were to begin, keeping the razor in the enclosed space of a razor box would accelerate the process ? I have mine in drawers where air circulates and with space between each one. So far .... knocking on wood ....... so good.

Jimmy, all my razors in oil and in their cardboard boxes.
You never thought, why many old Sheffield razors with patina, but without the rust. And they in their own boxes for 100-150 years.

You can't tell if celluloid is gassing by appearance. The scales on the Mandarin look pristine and once they start, often times, though folks think you get the typical line of rust it usually starts at a very small spot and you may get a small rust spot which can pit very fast. Normal oil will not prevent the acid fumes from reaching the metal. I don't know about silicon but unless it's something pretty substantial I have my doubts. You would need something resistant to acid and there aren't too many things that are which are practical to apply that I'm aware of anyway.

Normal oil will not prevent the acid fumes from reaching the metal.

You're right. Try to use oil on lampwax(paraffin) base.

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Over and over again.

If you have razors that are rarely used and are being stored even if you have them "well protected" inspect them on a regular basis. ...

Yep, GREAT advice. It takes some time and lots of space for us to go through the collection. Usually on or near Father's day when Jr is with is we go through the herd and again after the winter holidays. I also give them a good check when they come up in rotation. Most of the razors have Tuf-Glide under Ren wax and I still occasionally find a razor that it changing. Cell rot is the worst, nothing I have used prevents a razor from rusting once the celluloid starts to degrade. I did have a few razors in a paper covered cigar box for 20 odd years with no change to the metal but none of the scales were celluloid.

Has anyone here used Renaissance Wax Polish?
Its a sinthetic petoleum based "microcrystaline" wax that was researched and formulated on consignment by the National Brisish Museum in the 1950s.
During accelerated ageing tests it was found to perform better than all other natural and traditionally used methods.
It has been used extensively around by professionales for the curation of many antiques, including precious metals, wood, glass, marble etc.
They use it to protect monuments exposed to the weather 24/7.
I have only just started using it so I have no long term experience to share, but from my reading this product has a really good reputation.
I don´t know how it would fair with celluloid.
If you like I can post pics of the brochure that came with the wax. It has quite a bit of detail.

Originally Posted by bonitomio

Has anyone here used Renaissance Wax Polish? ...

We use it almost all the time. It works good but not perfect. Be sure to clean the surface to be waxed very good. I usually have Jr put it on the razors and knives. He wears latex gloves to be sure he doesn't leave shin oils on the metal before waxing. First he wipes the metal with 91% alcohol to remove oils and dirt. Then he puts a coat of Tuf-Glide on and waits for it to dry before wiping off the residue, then he applies three coats of Ren Wax. Ya know, wax on, wax off, wax on...

Originally Posted by Joed

We use it almost all the time. It works good but not perfect. Be sure to clean the surface to be waxed very good. I usually have Jr put it on the razors and knives. He wears latex gloves to be sure he doesn't leave shin oils on the metal before waxing. First he wipes the metal with 91% alcohol to remove oils and dirt. Then he puts a coat of Tuf-Glide on and waits for it to dry before wiping off the residue, then he applies three coats of Ren Wax. Ya know, wax on, wax off, wax on...

So Jr is the resident Karate Kid?
I use the medical grade alchohol (96% gives them an extra kick) on all my razors before I start sanding and polishing them.
What does Tuf-glide do? Why do you use that before using the Ren Wax?