Results 11 to 14 of 14
-
03-21-2012, 08:20 PM #11
Thanks to you all!
It has been helpfull
---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?nqpo3h
-
03-21-2012, 08:58 PM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- 35°15'12" N, 94°29'1" W., LeFlore County, Oklahoma
- Posts
- 329
Thanked: 24Welcome to SRP..........If you have questions...ASK !
-
03-21-2012, 09:24 PM #13
I recommend a name brand like Dovo and that you
also watch the classified section of this forum.
I have seen many razors for less than $100
that are darn good in the classified.
The key is that it be correctly hand honed or priced low
enough that you can send it out for a $20+SH honing service.
Do review the Beginners guide:
Beginner's guide to straight razor shaving - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Do not forget that you will also need
a good strop and....
Most importantly what do you shave with now?
If you have and used a good shave brush and shave soap
you are well ahead of the game. I know of a number
of folk that have found that the goo in a can is the
root of their dislike for shaving. Some call it shave prep,
I just call it "latherin" but for me this is the most critical
step for making a shave enjoyable. The blade I select
almost does not matter as long as it is sharp and smooth.
-
03-21-2012, 09:37 PM #14
Vintage can be and are as good as new.
The key is that old or new it be correctly sharpened.
Some here call that "shave ready".
Vintage blades have more variety in shape. They
can also be basket cases needing help. A no name
vintage blade with sound scales can be found for $60.
Replaced scales can take that higher.
Famous name vintage with high end original scales
or a full restoration can be expensive $600-$5000
and more. But in the end it is the steel and correct
sharpening that makes a razor worth shaving with. Some
expensive vintage razors (and new) have exotic wood,
or ivory scales that can cause tangles at the border
so understand the changing rules if you go there.