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Thread: 4x new (old) Razors !!
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05-26-2012, 04:49 AM #11
I come from an automotive background too but I can tell you with body panels you have a whole lot more steel to work with.
What may appear as surface rust can become a chip in the edge when honing. In such a thin piece of steel as a razor's edge it takes little to compromise its integrity. Get yourself some magnification & take a look as the jobs progress, you'll see what we're on about. The early bevel setting stage will likely see you with some microchipping. That's not to say you won't find healthy steel as the honing progresses. I've restored a lot of edges on a gamble & if a clean bevel came up they all shaved well. G'luck, as has been noted they are some quality brands.
That first Elliot may need some work on the stabiliser as you go. Hard to tell from the pics but just keep an eye out as you hone that the hone marks don't creep onto the stabiliser. It can lift the heel off the stone causing the toe to get sharper than the heel. Modifying the stabiliser can futureproof an other wise problem geometry. Some reading below:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ing-heels.htmlLast edited by onimaru55; 05-26-2012 at 04:55 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:
donalexander (05-26-2012)
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05-26-2012, 04:54 AM #12
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05-26-2012, 05:09 AM #13
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05-26-2012, 09:09 AM #14
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05-26-2012, 09:23 AM #15
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Thanked: 2I just ran that little razor over the 'razor' lol and what is left is similar to the little razor which is most likely finger prints that have gone rusty, I believe she will clean up just fine.
It is really hard to tell from pics and in this case it looked worse than it was.
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05-26-2012, 09:39 AM #16
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Thanked: 2Also I think I will re-scale the two bone ones as the JOSEPH ELLIOT has a crack at the bottom pin and the WARRANTED one is not in good condition, know of any threads on what to use for new pins etc?
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05-26-2012, 10:31 AM #17
You can pick up a little lighted monocular 60x for around 10$ on ebay I think? I use the for the edge, when I have a lot of pits. Then i just hone. Through to the line of no pits to get a good edge... I have a couple like that. They don't make great sellors, but they are good enough for the rotation at home.
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05-26-2012, 10:36 AM #18
[QUOTE=donalexander;971199]Also I think I will re-scale the two bone ones as the JOSEPH ELLIOT has a crack at the bottom pin and the WARRANTED one is not in good condition, know of any threads on what to use for new pins etc?
[QUOTE]
Plenty of good info in the 'Workshop' sticky, mate
I use 1/16" brazing rod and washers from micro-fasteners
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The Following User Says Thank You to Havachat45 For This Useful Post:
donalexander (05-26-2012)
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05-26-2012, 01:46 PM #19
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Thanked: 1936The ONLY way to check if the rust is too bad is to take it to a bevel setting stone (you don't have to truly set the bevel) for a little bit and then look at the edge under magnification. I personally use 60x & higher.
Sometimes you can hone past rust in the edge...most of the time you can't as rust can be like lava tubes...you never know how or where it will tunnel.
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05-26-2012, 03:59 PM #20
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Thanked: 2027Lava Tubes? I like the anology