Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23
Like Tree11Likes

Thread: 4x new (old) Razors !!

  1. #11
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bodalla, NSW
    Posts
    15,596
    Thanked: 3748

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donalexander View Post
    OK lets get this cleared up then,

    NONE of these blades are pitted on the edge, it is spots of surface rust that I can actually remove most of it with my fingernails lol
    So luck I picked theses up before they rusted any longer

    the only slight pitting is the under side of the tangs and the top of the spines in some of them

    ( I'm a Panelbeater by trade and do alot of engineering work....I know my rust!! )

    I just ran a razor blade over them and it removed most of the surface rust, just needs a sand up, polish and honing
    I come from an automotive background too but I can tell you with body panels you have a whole lot more steel to work with.
    What may appear as surface rust can become a chip in the edge when honing. In such a thin piece of steel as a razor's edge it takes little to compromise its integrity. Get yourself some magnification & take a look as the jobs progress, you'll see what we're on about. The early bevel setting stage will likely see you with some microchipping. That's not to say you won't find healthy steel as the honing progresses. I've restored a lot of edges on a gamble & if a clean bevel came up they all shaved well. G'luck, as has been noted they are some quality brands.

    That first Elliot may need some work on the stabiliser as you go. Hard to tell from the pics but just keep an eye out as you hone that the hone marks don't creep onto the stabiliser. It can lift the heel off the stone causing the toe to get sharper than the heel. Modifying the stabiliser can futureproof an other wise problem geometry. Some reading below:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ing-heels.html
    Last edited by onimaru55; 05-26-2012 at 04:55 AM.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:

    donalexander (05-26-2012)

  3. #12
    Obsessive compulsive EisenFaust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    1,315
    Thanked: 323

    Default

    ↑↑ Gospel.

  4. #13
    The original Skolor and Gentileman. gugi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    17,410
    Thanked: 3906
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donalexander View Post
    OK lets get this cleared up then,

    NONE of these blades are pitted on the edge, it is spots of surface rust that I can actually remove most of it with my fingernails lol
    Here is my annotation to your photograph pointing out where the steel is rotten through and cannot hold an edge that can shave:

    Name:  2012-05-25 15.08.41.jpg
Views: 257
Size:  94.9 KB

    You need to have perfectly clean steel all along the edge, and from the looks of that razor it may not be possible at this stage.

  5. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gugi View Post
    Here is my annotation to your photograph pointing out where the steel is rotten through and cannot hold an edge that can shave:

    Name:  2012-05-25 15.08.41.jpg
Views: 257
Size:  94.9 KB

    You need to have perfectly clean steel all along the edge, and from the looks of that razor it may not be possible at this stage.
    Have a look at these photos (had to use the flash as its night time over here) tell me what you think
    Name:  2012-05-26 20.59.18.jpg
Views: 215
Size:  84.2 KBName:  2012-05-26 21.00.32.jpg
Views: 214
Size:  64.1 KB

  6. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    I just ran that little razor over the 'razor' lol and what is left is similar to the little razor which is most likely finger prints that have gone rusty, I believe she will clean up just fine.
    It is really hard to tell from pics and in this case it looked worse than it was.

  7. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Also I think I will re-scale the two bone ones as the JOSEPH ELLIOT has a crack at the bottom pin and the WARRANTED one is not in good condition, know of any threads on what to use for new pins etc?
    Name:  2012-05-26 19.56.37.jpg
Views: 206
Size:  69.8 KBName:  2012-05-26 19.57.15.jpg
Views: 201
Size:  65.0 KBName:  2012-05-26 19.58.09.jpg
Views: 200
Size:  57.4 KBName:  2012-05-26 19.58.22.jpg
Views: 229
Size:  60.5 KB

  8. #17
    Senior Member Wintchase's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    1,769
    Thanked: 1045

    Default

    You can pick up a little lighted monocular 60x for around 10$ on ebay I think? I use the for the edge, when I have a lot of pits. Then i just hone. Through to the line of no pits to get a good edge... I have a couple like that. They don't make great sellors, but they are good enough for the rotation at home.

  9. #18
    Senior Member Havachat45's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    1,639
    Thanked: 291

    Default

    [QUOTE=donalexander;971199]Also I think I will re-scale the two bone ones as the JOSEPH ELLIOT has a crack at the bottom pin and the WARRANTED one is not in good condition, know of any threads on what to use for new pins etc?
    [QUOTE]

    Plenty of good info in the 'Workshop' sticky, mate
    I use 1/16" brazing rod and washers from micro-fasteners
    ScottGoodman and collo77 like this.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Havachat45 For This Useful Post:

    donalexander (05-26-2012)

  11. #19
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
    Posts
    7,285
    Thanked: 1936
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    The ONLY way to check if the rust is too bad is to take it to a bevel setting stone (you don't have to truly set the bevel) for a little bit and then look at the edge under magnification. I personally use 60x & higher.

    Sometimes you can hone past rust in the edge...most of the time you can't as rust can be like lava tubes...you never know how or where it will tunnel.

  12. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    Lava Tubes? I like the anology

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •