Thread: How To Prevent Oxidation On Black Horn Scales

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

The main reason you would choose 100% neatsfoot oil over the compound formula is that you don't know what is in the compounded oil - that's all. It is likely to be a mineral or petroleum oil, so it shouldn't matter to horn scales anyway. It matters most to leather strops, but these aren't the question in this case. Most oils that you could put on your skin would serve - horn is only like the material our nails are constructed with. If you wouldn't use it on your hands, don't put it on the scales.

What's worrying is that such a short immersion in water should provoke such a degree of oxidation, if indeed that's what it is. For black scales to turn white you usually get a drying of salts on the surface that is white and powdery, or a mould that looks pretty much like the same thing, or you have got delamination just under the surface to a large degree. Horn is made from thin layers of material, and if separation (ie delamination) occurs, then the change in how the light penetrates the scales becomes apparent and you get a lightening effect. The trick is to fill that delaminated area with something of a similar refractive index, such as oil. Thinning the oils with spirits or turps (test first - not all oils thin in the same stuff) will help the delaminated areas wick it up, then you remove to a thicker (full strength) oil for a rather long time - I have left them fop anything from a few days to a few weeks. Sometimes the effect is so profound that they look magically restored, and the oil is not going to oxidise away very quickly after prolonged soaking, especially if you buff the scales and finish with a layer of wax well-rubbed in. Any buffing agent you use does not want to have any water or ammonia in it - some of those metal buffing polished have a distinct whiff of ammonia. Originally they would have used tripoli powder mixed with wax or oil. Lapping compound (fine) would do it. A light sanding followed by buffing will have them looking very shiney - do the sanding before oiling, though.

Regards,
Neil

Thank you, good sir. Excellent information that is helpful to my situation.

I will try to find some stuff locally and let you guys know how it turns out...

UPDATE:

So I moved and finally have space to work now. During moving, I found that I actually HAD neatsfoot oil! Turns out Whipped Dog sent me a little packet of it along with the poorman's strop and I just didn't realize it.

Anyway, I used WD-40 on the scales first, completely soaking them. Let that sit for about 30 minutes, then wiped it off and rubbed on the neatsfoot oil liberally. Let that sit for about 5 hours. Wiped off clean, and then proceeded to lightly sand the blade and give it a nice polish with Mothers. Here's the end result:



I'm quite pleased with it.

I fixed up some horn for a friend, he wanted it as shiny as possible.
So after taking that lovely looking horn thru sandpaper, micro-mesh, buffing, oil 'n hard wax and then some more buffing, he finally got what looked exactly like black plastic!
Well, he was happy.
I prefer the look on yours, i like them fresh, clean and smooth to the touch but I still want it to look like horn.

Originally Posted by Lemur

I fixed up some horn for a friend, he wanted it as shiny as possible.
So after taking that lovely looking horn thru sandpaper, micro-mesh, buffing, oil 'n hard wax and then some more buffing, he finally got what looked exactly like black plastic!
Well, he was happy.
I prefer the look on yours, i like them fresh, clean and smooth to the touch but I still want it to look like horn.

I'm exactly the same as you. I like the look of horn compared to plastic. My Henckels is plastic/celluloid/whatever and it just doesn't compare. There's something about the horn that I really admire.

This info is from the Wikipedia. Just thought it might be interesting. Mack

Neatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the shin bones and feet (but not the hooves) of cattle. "Neat" in the oil's name comes from an old name for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medicinally as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.

"Prime neatsfoot oil" or "neatsfoot oil compound" are terms used for a blend of pure neatsfoot oil and non-animal oils, generally mineral or other petroleum-based oils.
Contents

1 Characteristics
2 Uses
3 See also
4 References

Characteristics

Fat from warm-blooded animals normally has a high melting point, becoming hard when cool – but neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature. This is because the relatively slender legs and feet of animals such as cattle are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange in the legs between warm arterial and cooler venous blood – other body fat would become stiff at these temperatures. This characteristic of neatsfoot oil allows it to soak easily into leather.

Modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, but now, while retaining its historic name, usually is made mostly from lard,[1] which is sold as pure neatsfoot oil. This formulation does darken leather.[2] If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound". Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.[3] The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself.[2][4][5]
Uses

Neatsfoot oil is used on a number of leather products, although it has been replaced by synthetic products for certain applications. Items such as baseball gloves, saddles, horse harnesses and other horse tack can be softened and conditioned with neatsfoot oil.

If used on important historical objects, neatsfoot oil (like other leather dressings) can oxidize with time and contribute to embrittling.[6] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it may cause darkening (even after a single application), thus may not be a desirable product to use when the maintenance of a lighter shade is desired. Neatsfoot oil is more useful for routine use on working equipment.



Neatsfoot oil is often used to oil sign-writers' brushes that have been used in oil based paint, as this oil is non drying and can be easily washed out with solvent at any time. By oiling the brushes it reduces the build up of pigment in the ferrule, the metal part that many brushes have to hold the hairs in place.

Neatsfoot oil is used in metalworking industries as a cutting fluid for aluminium. For machining, tapping and drilling aluminium, it is superior to kerosene and other water-based cutting fluids