Thread: How To Prevent Oxidation On Black Horn Scales

I have a Wade and Butcher that I got off the 'bay. During cleaning it up, I ran the scales under water to get some gunk out of between them. Bad idea. Ever since then, they keep oxidizing (turning white). I used some wood polisher stuff (I was at my grandparent and it was the only thing available) and that fixed the problem. I sent the razor off to get honed, and when I got it back, I had since purchased some Mothers polish and wanted to further shine up the razor. I used the Mothers on the scales as well, having seen here that it was an acceptable thing to do. Turned the scales a nice deep black. I was happy. Stored the razor in its case, but when I got it out a little while later to shave, I was displeased to see that the scales were white again. I shaved, and then hit them with the Mothers again. Stored the razor and haven't looked at it since. I guess we will find out if they oxidized yet again.

Is there any easy solution to this so where I won't have to worry about it anymore?

Spray them with WD40, this will sort out the oxidation problem, another tip as the scales are horn and probably extremely dry, take a shallow tray and lay the razor flat and cover with a the whole razor with neatsfoot oil and leave for several hours.

Jamie

Jeez, this neatsfoot oil is hard to find locally here in the Middle TN area... I'd hate to have to resort to buying it off Amazon, but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to.

As for the WD-40, I can still go ahead and do that? Of course I have that handy... I think.

Originally Posted by Chreees

Jeez, this neatsfoot oil is hard to find locally here in the Middle TN area... I'd hate to have to resort to buying it off Amazon, but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to.

As for the WD-40, I can still go ahead and do that? Of course I have that handy... I think.

I'm sure you live near a saddlers or horse equipment retailer, if so they nearly always sell neatsfoot oil, PS when you spray the oxidized scales with WD40 make sure you give them a light buffing with a piece of 4K micro mesh at the same time as this will bring them back up and give them the look you require.

Jamie

Tractor supply and farm supply stores carry neatsfoot oil. Make sure you get neatsfoot "oil" not neatsfoot "compund".

Thanks, dudes. Yeah, I'm sure there's a place around here that sells it. I just need to look a little bit harder. I think today or tomorrow I just need to sit down and call a bunch of places that would likely have it, and just ask if they carry it. Save me some gas money!

What's ironic is that I can think of at least three places near my hometown in West TN that would have it. But I won't be moved back there for another two weeks. I guess I could just wait, but where's the fun in that?!

I will say that despite the scales being ugly at the moment, the razor shaves like a beast!

Another place to check for neatsfoot oil is a shoemaker or shoe repair store. Living in NYC, their are no saddle places and I can neatsfoot in any good shoe repair shops.

Why not neatsfoot compound ? I have been using it on my scales for years. I makes them like new !

Originally Posted by Silents

Another place to check for neatsfoot oil is a shoemaker or shoe repair store. Living in NYC, their are no saddle places and I can neatsfoot in any good shoe repair shops.

Thanks for the recommendation! I will be sure to look up shoe repair stores as well in my search.

Originally Posted by mackie

Why not neatsfoot compound ? I have been using it on my scales for years. I makes them like new !

+1. I would like to know why it is not recommended to use the compound, especially if this fellow here uses it with no problems... Just to keep my options open.

The main reason you would choose 100% neatsfoot oil over the compound formula is that you don't know what is in the compounded oil - that's all. It is likely to be a mineral or petroleum oil, so it shouldn't matter to horn scales anyway. It matters most to leather strops, but these aren't the question in this case. Most oils that you could put on your skin would serve - horn is only like the material our nails are constructed with. If you wouldn't use it on your hands, don't put it on the scales.

What's worrying is that such a short immersion in water should provoke such a degree of oxidation, if indeed that's what it is. For black scales to turn white you usually get a drying of salts on the surface that is white and powdery, or a mould that looks pretty much like the same thing, or you have got delamination just under the surface to a large degree. Horn is made from thin layers of material, and if separation (ie delamination) occurs, then the change in how the light penetrates the scales becomes apparent and you get a lightening effect. The trick is to fill that delaminated area with something of a similar refractive index, such as oil. Thinning the oils with spirits or turps (test first - not all oils thin in the same stuff) will help the delaminated areas wick it up, then you remove to a thicker (full strength) oil for a rather long time - I have left them fop anything from a few days to a few weeks. Sometimes the effect is so profound that they look magically restored, and the oil is not going to oxidise away very quickly after prolonged soaking, especially if you buff the scales and finish with a layer of wax well-rubbed in. Any buffing agent you use does not want to have any water or ammonia in it - some of those metal buffing polished have a distinct whiff of ammonia. Originally they would have used tripoli powder mixed with wax or oil. Lapping compound (fine) would do it. A light sanding followed by buffing will have them looking very shiney - do the sanding before oiling, though.

Regards,
Neil