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Thread: Rolls Razor
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11-21-2010, 12:59 AM #31
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Posts
- 23
Thanked: 3The type with the single column of keys running down the center is the Viscount model, which is a sleeker, more oblong design. The Imperial model has three columns of keys and is the more common rectangular design. While the covers are not exactly interchangeable between the two models (close, but not exact), the strops and hones are.
As you pointed out falguy, for a DE user, this will be easy to use and IMO, it's also a great way to learn the effect of different angles from a nearly bare blade, which makes a transition to a straight a little easier if so inclined. It's a great value as you can keep it honed yourself with a little patience. Alot of great engineering in a rolls for very little money - and it could last a lifetime.
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11-21-2010, 01:07 AM #32
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- May 2010
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- 23
Thanked: 3
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11-21-2010, 02:08 AM #33
While mentioning cracked hones,it bears mentioning this may be the only weakness of this solidly engineered device.
When closing the unit be alert that when snapping the lid closed, make sure all the pieces are in the correct placement. If the handle is not sitting in the correct position, and the hone side lid contacts the handle, you will break the hone.
Every broken hone I've seen is that same potential contact spot.
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11-21-2010, 03:24 AM #34
After reading some of the new posts, it seem as if someone had ALREADY changed the strop and hone in my razor...
I'm guessing, correct me if I wrong, the original hone was actually a honing stone... Like I said, I have taken the hone out of mine and it is just a piece of something attached to a cardboard backer.
The strop is the same... I'll try and post pictures...
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11-21-2010, 04:11 AM #35
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Posts
- 23
Thanked: 3Yes, the correct hone would be a stone, so someone tried to rig up a fix with yours. Here is a photo of a functional, well used strop; a solid, but well used hone; and a cracked hone. The crack is about 2/3rds of the way down. Because the cracks are easy to hide, I recommend always asking about the hone before you buy your first one. As previously mentioned, if you are careful with storing your handle (I recommend placing it in the side slot, if your kit has the cutout for it), it will last as long as the kit does, maybe longer.
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11-21-2010, 04:16 AM #36
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11-21-2010, 10:37 AM #37
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Brisbane/Redcliffe, Australia
- Posts
- 6,380
Thanked: 983I checked out an antique shop over the weekend and found a very nice Rolls...But the price was AUS$78. I thought that was too much...Also saw a very nice Gotti Cutthroat for $24 but I valiantly fought down the RAD and left it there...Till next month when I intend to go back and purchase both the Rolls and the Gotti if they're still there...More than likely according to the owner of the business.
I learnt all about being careful with the Rolls in that respect. If you don't have the pieces in the right position it would take some force to put the lid back in place...I didn't break anything thankfully...Heavens forbid I may have had to buy faulty merchandise if that had have happened!
MickLast edited by MickR; 11-22-2010 at 09:46 AM.
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11-22-2010, 06:14 AM #38
Here's a few pictures of my "strop" & "Hone" from my Rolls...
The first picture is what they look like...
Hone on the Right and Strop on the left:
Showing the front and back... Notice the cardboard:
The side and showing that there is some type of "abrasive" paper used as the hone:
Last, two leather inserts, one for a new stropping surface and the second I was hoping I could put some CrOx for a hone....
However, my mind was not working and discovered that the edge of the blade cuts into the leather.... Back to the drawing board...
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11-22-2010, 07:37 AM #39
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Scotland
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- 1,561
Thanked: 227
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11-22-2010, 09:48 AM #40