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Thread: once over shave?
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06-14-2007, 06:22 AM #1
I can't tell you how to use the feather because I haven't used one. However, if you notice on the video of lynn he takes the lather off, and then adds a couple of small strokes in the area he just took the lather off. I use that same method.
My impression from what the manual says is that you make the firt pass across the grain? It could also be that you make the first pass down, and then similarly to the motion described above you make a couple more short strokes across the grain. Doesn't sound very practical either way to me.
I cannot do more than one pass with a straight as I get too much irritation. I get zero irritation and a close (not perfect) shave on the first pass with the technique described above.
Good luck!
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06-14-2007, 07:24 AM #2
Those passages from the manual, while sagely, are generalizations. Each man must find his own best way through.
My small beard is stubborn and I usually do a kind of once over. Once the first pass is done, I merely wet my face with water for the ATG pass. There is enough lubricity remaining from the previous lathering to get me through well. Contrary to what the manual says, I experience the most irritation from not shaving.
X
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06-14-2007, 11:19 AM #3
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Thanked: 0My guess is that the manual refers to the quality of shave expected in the 19th century. The definition of a "close shave" may therefore differ a bit from nowadays expectation of a BBS shave.
No matter how much I would like to be done with a one-pass shave, as long as I don't go against the grain the shave is nowhere near to be called close. And yes, my razors are nice and sharp
YMMV,
-Axel-
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06-14-2007, 11:30 AM #4
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Thanked: 1The barber manual from 1960's era says the same thing.
For my beard, no matter how sharp or what type of blade, a once over is never enough.
Generally, my first pass is with the grain and then I relather for a cross-grain pass, which just means that if my beard grows down in a particular area, I shave from from left to right.
X is right though, you need to find what works best for your beard type and growth pattern. The suggestions in the barber's manual is for professionals to give their customers a good shave without the irritation because an irritated customer may not come back.
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06-14-2007, 01:53 PM #5
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Thanked: 346After making a stroke with the grain, immediately shave the same patch across the grain. Your blade winds up making a series of chevron strokes down your face. Although you removed the lather in your first stroke, there's enough residual slickness left that you can easily do the cross-grain stroke. Do it quickly though, as that residual slickness goes away within a few (5-10) seconds.
This is my usual workday M-F shave.
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06-14-2007, 02:38 PM #6
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Thanked: 0+1 on the chevrons. I never thought about it really - I always assumed I was doing a single wtg pass, but if I analyze it, I am shaving two different angles 90 degrees apart on every part of my cheeks because of the way my hairs there grow.
BTW - my pre-shave oil will leave enough residual lubrication to do a second pass straight away. Maybe that would help?
Si
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06-14-2007, 09:23 PM #7
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Thanked: 1The manual and MParker line up with me.
On a single pass, I do multiple angle stokes on each area of my face before I move on to the next. Their is enough moisture after the lather is removed on the first stroke to immediately go across the grain.
The result is a quality shave in less time.
HOWEVER, if I am enjoying myself and have plenty of time, I'll relather and go at it again---partly for a slight improvement in the final result, and partly just for FUN!
Ron