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Thread: Soft Steel Razors

  1. #31
    DVW
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    Notice the smile to the entire bottom if the blade
    Hmm, yes I do, especially in the bottom picture. How much of that do you think was there when it was new, and how much do you think is due to wear? I still have enough material to give it that shape.

    Also, what diameter is that pivot hole? It looks large to me.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVW View Post
    That is what I would suspect as well. I'm guessing that the coil spring I used was .55-.60 carbon (5160, 9260, 1060, etc...). It behaved as if it had even less carbon than old farm implement steel. While it certainly hardened and took a temper, the sparks were not near as abundant. Razors don't have to be very hard. If someone has a broken razor that was made in the 1700's or early 1800's, I'd love to have it for some testing. Even just the broken off toe would be enough. I could send it off along with a chunk of that coil spring for analysis.
    People can use ultrasound to figure out the composition of the steel without destroying it. I had someone tell me the type of steel under the chrome plating, so, I don't think polish should be a problem. If I remember one of my customers had someone drive 2 hours each way and test a few parts for less than $500. So it must not be that expensive if you take it in to them or even have someone local.

    I not sure if they test hardness with an ultra sound, but there are nondestructive ways of getting that, too. Actually, you forge and heat treat, so you may have your own.

    I have run into an issue before where the hardness test was inaccurate because the part was shot peaned. So the outside was harder than the inside. I know nothing of metal working practices in the olden days (or today, really) to know if anything done then could result in a similar issue.

    So, I'm an engineer. If a customer wants me to analyze/reverse engineer a part I tell them to get it tested and they send me the results. So, I have exhausted my knowledge on the subject, but thought it may be worth looking into if you can't find a broken blade.
    Last edited by planeden; 09-22-2020 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Typo

  3. #33
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    I know a place in Spokane with a hand held analyzer. I may be able to sweet talk them into testing it for me at no cost. One of the members on here had a broken blade at one point in time. He is looking around to see if he can find it. It would be really cool to get some actual data on one of these things and it would give me some targets to aim for.
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  4. #34
    DVW
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    I think that the blade profile is correct now. Looking at pictures of old razors I feel that I need to make the pivot hole larger and change the tail shape some. From what I see, most of them had a more pronounced hook on the end. Both modification basically have to be done now, before heat treating, if I'm going to change it.

    Moderators, This thread has kind of morphed. Do you think that it would be appropriate to move it?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVW View Post
    Hmm, yes I do, especially in the bottom picture. How much of that do you think was there when it was new, and how much do you think is due to wear? I still have enough material to give it that shape.

    Also, what diameter is that pivot hole? It looks large to me.

    There wasn't that much wear, so its close to original width and shape.

    As for pin hole. 5/32- 1/8th inch.
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    Mike

  6. #36
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    Thanks Mike. I drilled out the pivot hole to 1/8" and it looks better now for the style. Also, I reshaped the tail. I found a huge variety of tail shapes for this era of razors, so I just went with what I thought looked good and "appropriate". Here it is out of the heat treat oven. The coloring is still on it. There is still a little bit of grinding left to do. Then it needs polished and my initials etched. I think that I'm going to hone it and use it before I put the scales on. I want to be sure that everything is correct before it gets scaled.

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    Heat treated, ground and polished. Ready for honing and scales.
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  8. #38
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    Woo Hoo! First shave with the new "Soft Steel" Razor. I have to admit that it was a bit awkward with no heel and no scales. However, it was the most effortless shave I've ever had. Also it is as close to BBS as I've ever come. Now to put some scales on this thing and give it another try.

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  9. #39
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    It is finished. I tried to take some pictures of it in different lighting. The scales are made from aged elk antler. I think that they may be a bit thick yet. Also, I decided not to use any washers. The wedge is made from elk antler as well. It is still a bit awkward to shave with since it does not have a heel and I'm not used to blades quite this long, but it was easier now that it has scales attached. It shaves very effortlessly and makes for a smooth shave. I need to send it to Outback for review and feedback since he is much more familiar with this style than I am.

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  10. #40
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I'd be more than happy to give it a go.

    There is a different grip associated with these razors, compared to modern grinds. But its mainly to protect my thumb, should the blade slip in my hand. Stroppin is toughest part I've encountered, especially if the scales are loose.
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    Mike

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