Thread: Chin and lip area

I have a shave ready razor and i find i get a perfect shave on the cheek area and the neck area going xtg and agtg no probs at all. Just the upper lip and chin when shaving with the grain my razor does remove the stubble but tends to be a little uncomfortable and i have to apply a little more force is this because my razor could need to be a little keener or normal in this area? I should imagine when honed by a proffesional honemeister they test shave on cheek area but we all no stubble can be more dense in the chin and lip area's. So i guess that area would be the real test. I am wondering weather to slightly hone again bearing in mind i am not that experianced with honing my self could any one give me some advice on this issue thanxs gary.

Originally Posted by gary haywood

I have a shave ready razor and i find i get a perfect shave on the cheek area and the neck area going xtg and agtg no probs at all. Just the upper lip and chin when shaving with the grain my razor does remove the stubble but tends to be a little uncomfortable and i have to apply a little more force is this because my razor could need to be a little keener or normal in this area? I should imagine when honed by a proffesional honemeister they test shave on cheek area but we all no stubble can be more dense in the chin and lip area's. So i guess that area would be the real test. I am wondering weather to slightly hone again bearing in mind i am not that experianced with honing my self could any one give me some advice on this issue thanxs gary.

The hairs on chin and upper lip are often the thickest you have and also hair density is bigger in those areas. Those are the only areas on my face that get 2 passes (XTG and ATG) instead of 1 (only ATG). Reading you I think you are feeling the itch to start honing your own razors so: get a practice razor and do it! In the mean time you may want to send your razor off to a honemeister.

I actualy purchased my razors from hone meister they were restored and proffesionaly honed and he does a realy nice job i get close enough shaving from right to left on chin and same with my lip it would just be nice to be able to take the first layer of stubble of my chin and lip area with the grain as your supose to with the first pass with out getting that ouch feeling. That is whats making me feel the blade could do with a slight tune up. Like i say cheek area no problem nice smooth shave. when i shave with my disposable straight razor my stubble comes of like butter.

Originally Posted by gary haywood

... my razor does remove the stubble but tends to be a little uncomfortable and i have to apply a little more force ...

Do not make this mistake! It is a very bad habit which most guys carry over from disposable shavers and could cause you harm. You might not actually cut yourself (but you very well could) however you will almost certainly experience unnecessary rawness. Stay light, but do smaller strokes and more passes, with, across, across again in the other direction and against where it is safe. Rewet and lather with each pass and work on your angles. Shaving angle should be narrower than 30º and you should be working with a slight cutting angle where the tip leads the stroke by up to 30º also. That particularly, even if you are only using a 10º cutting angle, should help you through the thickets.

X

So what your saying is not to shave with grain on chin area, and shave across the grain only and against if need be. I always shave my customers this way i never recomend shave up the grain in the chin or lip area as this will tear most men to bits and more likly to cause blood spot and iritation. Just recieved my dovo made from surgical steel witch is suposed to be a very sharp edge i will try tomorow morning and see if there is any differance it has honed professionaly honed by a chap in america. cheers gary.

Originally Posted by xman

Do not make this mistake! It is a very bad habit which most guys carry over from disposable shavers and could cause you harm. You might not actually cut yourself (but you very well could) however you will almost certainly experience unnecessary rawness. Stay light, but do smaller strokes and more passes, with, across, across again in the other direction and against where it is safe. Rewet and lather with each pass and work on your angles. Shaving angle should be narrower than 30º and you should be working with a slight cutting angle where the tip leads the stroke by up to 30º also. That particularly, even if you are only using a 10º cutting angle, should help you through the thickets.

X

I don't understand why if straights can be just as sharp as disposable cartidges that straights have to be babied so much around these tough areas when cartridges can be flailed around recklessly and yet cut through the hair twice as easily

You should not need to apply any pressure at all. This will not only cause razor burn, but very well could result in a cut.

Try doing E-W/W-E passes towards the middle of the chin, making sure the angle of the blade is consistent with the contours of your face. Also, if you feel brave you can try the scything motion. That always works better for me.

~Chris

Originally Posted by hoglahoo

I don't understand why if straights can be just as sharp as disposable cartidges that straights have to be babied so much around these tough areas when cartridges can be flailed around recklessly and yet cut through the hair twice as easily

I agree with you totaly lee i shave my clients with imitation straight razor with the derby proffesional blades and i get perfect shave around the lip and chin area with no pulling at all. this is what i am trying to achieve with traditional razor even when profesional honed still does.nt melt through the wiskers on my upper lip and chin. gary

Originally Posted by cwrighta70

You should not need to apply any pressure at all. This will not only cause razor burn, but very well could result in a cut.

Try doing E-W/W-E passes towards the middle of the chin, making sure the angle of the blade is consistent with the contours of your face. Also, if you feel brave you can try the scything motion. That always works better for me.

~Chris

I only get this tuging when shaving with the grain and taking the first layer of stubble of. when i shave across the grain i get agreat shave no pain nice and smooth. with a couple of across the grain passes works for me perfect and then i just wip up the grain under my lower lip jobs a good un and x my lip no probs its just the first initial pass on my lip and chin that i dread and shaving should be a pleasure you would't get this with imitation straight razor. but i don't believe you get the same level of sharpness with a traditional straight? Or i have yet to find one that is. I have 7 straights now some brand new and some restored ones i have to admit they all vary and i do get a good shave in the end but if only i could solve the ouch feeling around the lip and chin i'd be well happy. under the lip oviously you have to go in at a steeper angle because of your nose which carn't help.

I have quite a few straights and all of them hold a good razors edge.

This said, not all of them suit me. I regularly read members singing the virtues of different razors and think yes but not for me.We are all different and a razor that suits one man does not mean it will suit you.

One thing I am sure of is that when I use a sharp razor that suits me, shaving my upper lip and chin is as easy with my straight as ever it was with any other razor type. It is as easy to shave these areas as it is to shave a cheek. The only difference is you have to be more careful and confident with your technique. Being careful is natural, confidence comes with experience.

If you are confident of your skill level, I suggest you try some different types of razor and see how you get on. A 5/8ths hollow ground carbon steel blade in first class condition is a great starting razor. If you have a thick beard, a heavier or stiffer blade should improve the shave for you.

The DOVO carbon steeled imitation tortoise shell seems to be a popular all rounder that many get a good shave out of.

You can ofcourse pick up a second hand razor on the buy and sell section of this fine forum. You can also sell any you don't like. It's part of the fun of straight razor shaving.

Unfortunately, it can take time and patience to find the razor that is right for you. Once you do, you will not be worrying about you chin and you certainly won't want to use a disposable. Keep at it, it's worth the effort.