Thread: Moving forward, a few questions: razors & technique?

I'm looking to those among us who have crossed these bridges already, I love straight razor shaving, and am at a stage in the curve of learning where I need your valuable advice ---

Is it best to find the one (two) razor(s) that seem to work best, and use the same razor all the time, as opposed to my DE practice of randomly selecting one from about 6 favorites on a frequent basis?

I shave every day. As much as I love my DEs, would it be better for me to abandon them for a period of time while I focus all of my shaving energy into perfecting my straight razor technique? Along the same lines, am I correct in thinking that a part-time on again, off again shave with a straight razor is not really moving me measurably forward towards the goal of becoming adept at straight razor shaving?

Moving off the razor questions to the question of technique in the hardest areas to shave, shaving the upper lip is coming along better than the chin. My chin is "craggy" for want of a better term, and the whiskers there seem to be very tough and wiry. I get my fair share of cuts, and it seems that about 90% of those happen when I try to shave my chin WTG. ATG on the chin is virtually impossible, as is XTG. Any words of encourgement in this regard?

Gary, on some of it there is no 'right' or wrong. Just a matter of choice. When I used to shave with a DE I never used the same one all of the time. Since beginning with straights over a year ago I have never gone back to a DE nor have I shaved with the same straight more then once in a week or more. Merely my personal preference. OTOH, using a straight day after day has undoubtedly helped me to improve my technique. Practice makes perfect.

The chin is a known tough spot for most of us. I have learned to take my thumb and forefinger in a U shape and place them on either side of my chin and stretch towards my ears. This helps tighten it up and I go one way and then the other with buffing strokes. If you want to avoid cuts read my sig and do what it says. Works for me.

Many of us here use a different razor every day. As you are just starting out it may be easier to get comfortable to one or two razors until you feel comfortable shaving every area on your face that you care to. Two razors are good because if one starts tugging you can switch to the other while the first is is getting sharpened.

On to the chin. Most people have a heavier beard on the chin. This is where the difference between a good edge and a really sharp edge can be noticed. What kind of SR are you using and where was it honed? How is your beard prep and stropping technique?

In another post a while ago a similar question was asked. My reply was that it takes commitment to shave the chin. Be very aware of your blade angle (around 20 deg.) and pressure,lighter is better. It may help to have someone watch yo shave the chin and let you know when the angle get's too steep. Be sure not to move the blade sideways.

In learning to use a straight it has been recommended that yo just shave your sideburns and cheeks until you are comfortable working the blade in those areas. Finish your shave as you did before starting w/ SRs. Move onto other areas like the jaw bone or neck one at a time and progress to other areas when comfortable. Under the nose and the chin were suggested to be last on the transformation to straight shaving for the reasons you mentioned above.

Well, that's what has been recommended. I took the hard way first and then backed off and followed the recommended path. I would suggest the recommended path because commitment w/o experiance may lead to some significant cuts.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by brothers

Is it best to find the one (two) razor(s) that seem to work best, and use the same razor all the time, as opposed to my DE practice of randomly selecting one from about 6 favorites on a frequent basis?

I have only ever had one DE, but quickly had a few straights. I could do with only one, but made the conscious decision not to. What I have learnt on the way is that I like bigger (6/8+) and stiff blades. That is about it, though. No problem sticking with two. The only potential drawback is that they will lose their shave readiness at some point in the not too distant future, and you will either have to learn to touch them up, or have them professionally honed. Being a beginner, wrong stropping technique might bring an end to a razor's shave readiness quicker than you would expect.

Originally Posted by brothers

I shave every day. As much as I love my DEs, would it be better for me to abandon them for a period of time while I focus all of my shaving energy into perfecting my straight razor technique?

The techniques are subtly different, and in certain areas mutually exclusive. Incidentally, I was never able to get entirely rid of razor burn in the neck area with a DE.

Originally Posted by brothers

Along the same lines, am I correct in thinking that a part-time on again, off again shave with a straight razor is not really moving me measurably forward towards the goal of becoming adept at straight razor shaving?

Well, if you are a natural talent, this may well not be the case. Personally, I only used my DE for travelling after I started shaving with a straight, and it has worked reasonably well so far.

Originally Posted by brothers

Moving off the razor questions to the question of technique in the hardest areas to shave, shaving the upper lip is coming along better than the chin. My chin is "craggy" for want of a better term, and the whiskers there seem to be very tough and wiry. I get my fair share of cuts, and it seems that about 90% of those happen when I try to shave my chin WTG. ATG on the chin is virtually impossible, as is XTG. Any words of encouragement in this regard?

You may find this article highly useful: Advanced shaving techniques for the straight razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki. Blade angle, and skin stretching are extremely important. Likewise, learning to shave with zero pressure is a key element, but it requires a truly shave ready razor.

Originally Posted by brothers

I'm looking to those among us who have crossed these bridges already, I love straight razor shaving, and am at a stage in the curve of learning where I need your valuable advice ---

Is it best to find the one (two) razor(s) that seem to work best, and use the same razor all the time, as opposed to my DE practice of randomly selecting one from about 6 favorites on a frequent basis?

I shave every day. As much as I love my DEs, would it be better for me to abandon them for a period of time while I focus all of my shaving energy into perfecting my straight razor technique? Along the same lines, am I correct in thinking that a part-time on again, off again shave with a straight razor is not really moving me measurably forward towards the goal of becoming adept at straight razor shaving?

Moving off the razor questions to the question of technique in the hardest areas to shave, shaving the upper lip is coming along better than the chin. My chin is "craggy" for want of a better term, and the whiskers there seem to be very tough and wiry. I get my fair share of cuts, and it seems that about 90% of those happen when I try to shave my chin WTG. ATG on the chin is virtually impossible, as is XTG. Any words of encourgement in this regard?

Across the grain across the chin is not impossible, I do it every morning. I don't get cut because I pull the skin on the side of my face toward my ear, and use short careful strokes straight across the jaw, right to the center of the dimple. I tilt up my chin and cross over just under it, too, from each side. For that stroke I use a reverse grip on the razor, so the blade is pointing down. To make sure the corners of my mouth are BBS, it takes a diagonal slicing stroke toward the corner of my mouth, from just below it. For that stroke I have to use the reverse grip while doing the diagonal stroke upward toward my mouth on one side, but have to flex my wrist toward the elbow while doing the diagonal upward stroke. Took a long time to figure this out. Works for me but may not for you. FWIW.

The fact you are having those difficulties on your chin leads me to think the blade simply isn't sharp enough. A (relatively) dull blade will do fine WTG, or even ATG in "easy" areas, but will tug and skip and not cut in problem areas, like the chin and upper lip.

I too love my DEs. I've been doing hybrid shaves (using the straight as well as the DE on the same shave), but gradually learning to use the straight in the problem areas. This has worked for me. Most mornings 80-90% of the shave is with the straight, reserving the DE for only final passes around my mouth and for touch ups. Eventually, I will do the entire shave with a straight on a regular basis. I've already done this a couple of times and gotten BBS.

I think I'll always use the DEs, but probably relegate them to occasional shaves when I'm in a little hurry, or feeling a little lazy, or want to try a new blade or razor, or just for the heck of it.

I just want to let you buys know how much I appreciate the time to post this extremely thoughtful and helpful advice. I have read and re-read it, and I'm certain that all of what you have suggested will be a great help to me. Thanks have been registered to all! Best regards,

A lot of good advice here, but the one thing that hasnt been mentioned that you may wish to consider, is that when it comes to the chin you have to visualize it as a series of small flat planes, and then adjust your strokes accordingly. Of course stretching the skin will do a lot too.

When I shave my chin I pull the sides of the chin with two fingers back towards my ears. That leaves the parts in the center of the chin to be flatter and easier to shave. Also if your razor is cutting you and you can't move through hairs XTG or ATG then maybe your razor wasn't honed enough for your beard type? I have gotten quite a few "Shave ready" razors before and only a few of them were keen enough for my heavy stubble. You may need the bar set a little higher for your facial hair needs. Also when I shave ATG and XTG I use an almost flat angle on my face, where the spine is touching my skin.

Are you stropping before the shaves every day? Incorrect stropping is another way to dull a shave ready razor. You really need to develop an "Ear" for the way the draw sounds with you're stropping correctly.

Here is my "shave impovement cycle" diagram.

You have to work at each item to get improvement, and one affects the next.

Technique is a big factor. As mentioned, skin stretching is paramount to getting a close, cut-free shave. Especially if your whiskers are tough, you want to make sure your skin isn't getting "bunched up" in front of the razor, leading to cuts/nicks. Alos important is making sure your razor is quite sharp, and stropped correctly....and on and on...

Another note on my diagram: at any stage in this cycle it is completely appropriate to also insert "buy more straights!"