Thread: eBay find's I couldnt pass up.

I bought three razors on eBay plus they came with a Norton Safety Blade Hone. I got no use for this little hone but it looks like its never been used and its in the original box with instructions.

I've pulled the scales off as the scales on all three of these were just beyond help. But the razors were in pretty good shape. I'm just going to show the oldest one and all I did was a hand polishing. No power tools, sanding or anything else.

B.J. Eyre & Co. Greaves & Sons. Sheffield (it might have said Late W. Greaves & Sons but its too warn off to see that).



This was the best and oldest one of the three. The others ( GoldBug and a H. Boker) are not too bad. One is going to need some work to get chips out of the edge and a touch of working on the heal.

The only problem I see with this one is the hole has been warn at an angle and is a bit larger from ware. Is it kosher to fill the hole and re-drill? Any comments or recommendations on doing this?
Plus if you know that I'm completely wrong on the dating of this razor being early 1850's please let me know.
I'm not looking for what its worth as I know that against the rules of SRP. Its worth a lot to me being in good shape and for its age. I wanted to find a vintage with lots of years on it. Old Razor! And this one will be the oldest in my collection.

Looks to have been reground, to me. The pivot hole is supposed to be that way. They were punched out, not drilled.

I've got an Eyre. Nice shavers.
Enjoy.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...zed-pivot.html


If it will not fit the smallest size tube without drilling it doesn't need to be sleeved

Keeping in mind that the ONLY reason to sleeve one is because many of us make our scales to much tighter tolerances then the were in the past


ps: I agree with Mike, that looks to be a Factory Regrind, they were quite common after about 1910

I like that Greaves-I have one like it. And it may not need to be sleeved, as others have said.

Having said that, I have had a couple with over-size pivot holes that led to slop. I sleeved one, and it worked perfectly. On another one, I taped one side and smeared some epoxy into the hole. Once it was dry, I carefully sanded both sides back flush, drilled, and mounted/pinned into scales. Very simple, and it worked perfectly. No problems with either one since.

Either way, please show it in its new clothes!

thanks for the reply's. Factory regrind? What does this mean and how do you tell?

from an earlier thread somewhere on here. ive used this occasionally. worked well. easy to sand flush. easy to drill.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8276...words=weld+mix

Here's an old picture of a razor that I sleeved.
I went one step further then Glen and epoxied the sleeve in with 5 minute epoxy.
Whatever you do, make sure that the sleeve is perfectly square. I ended up leaving the sleeve long, making a jig, then cutting it when the epoxy dried.
Good luck.

Pete <:-}

Good idea on leaving it long. Less stuff inside the sleave accidently and then it can be from scale to scale. Will have to look for this tubing i think i know where to find some locally. Thanks all.

I get my brass tubing, rod for pinning and sheeting at a local hobby shop if it helps any.

Pete <:-}

Originally Posted by Gasman

thanks for the reply's. Factory regrind? What does this mean and how do you tell?

After the Double Hollow grinder was perfected in Solingen, and the idea was picked up all over, many of the Sheffield Factories began Hollow Grinding not only their line stock, but offered to Re-grind customer's Heavy steel into Hollow Ground beauties..