Thread: Semogue LE 09, Rooney Butterscotch and a lot of straights

Sweeeeeet haul. You've got some amazing bades in there.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

Sweeeeeet haul. You've got some amazing bades in there.

Thanks Dylan. I can't wait to get a buffer so that I can get to work on the blades themselves. I have a lot of other blades to practice on, too, so I'll start with those.

Originally Posted by heirkb

What did you use to round the tip on yours?

Sorry for the delay. I had not noticed your response at first. I used my belt sander (right here with 120 grit and a very light touch and ice water for cooling very frequently. I'm planning on scaling her up this evening so hopefully I'll have pics soon.

Originally Posted by Muirtach

Sorry for the delay. I had not noticed your response at first. I used my belt sander (right here with 120 grit and a very light touch and ice water for cooling very frequently. I'm planning on scaling her up this evening so hopefully I'll have pics soon.

Thanks Earl. Is that the belt sander you're using to make your scales? I had made up my mind to just get a buffer and buff blades and send my razors out for scales, but now that you've posted a sander that's actually pretty cheap, I'm questioning that.

That, a couple hand saws (coping and a ripsaw) and hand sanding have been my main tools. I recent built one of these to help as well.

A lot of nice blades in the batch. I think you'll like the SSA. The Barber's Use W&B is similar to one I just acquired, but the Barber's notch on mine is a bit deeper and ends just a fraction from the bevel.

Scrape off the rust, hit them with some metal polish and hone them up. You can always run them over a buffer some time in the future if you are careful not to turn the edge into the wheel.

Enjoy.

Originally Posted by Joed

A lot of nice blades in the batch. I think you'll like the SSA. The Barber's Use W&B is similar to one I just acquired, but the Barber's notch on mine is a bit deeper and ends just a fraction from the bevel.

Scrape off the rust, hit them with some metal polish and hone them up. You can always run them over a buffer some time in the future if you are careful not to turn the edge into the wheel.

Enjoy.

Thanks Joe. If I were to turn the edge too much into the wheel, would that just ruin the honing job, or would it be likely to permanently damage the razor/cause me some injury (razor flies off wheel, etc.)?

I already polished the one W&B that has the profile of a le Grelot. It's looking pretty good and I think I'll hone it once my honing gets better. I can't get an edge to shave ready quite yet, even though it seems that I'm close. I really should follow the advice in your signature and try something new with my honing.

Originally Posted by heirkb

Thanks Joe. If I were to turn the edge too much into the wheel, would that just ruin the honing job, or would it be likely to permanently damage the razor/cause me some injury (razor flies off wheel, etc.)?

I already polished the one W&B that has the profile of a le Grelot. It's looking pretty good and I think I'll hone it once my honing gets better. I can't get an edge to shave ready quite yet, even though it seems that I'm close. I really should follow the advice in your signature and try something new with my honing.

You would probably break the blade and may cause yourself some injury. Not a good idea to ever put the edge into the coming wheel.

I posted some honing suggestions in this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...me-help-2.html If you are have problems give it a try. Be sure the razor cuts arm hairs from the forst hone you use.

Goog luck!

Originally Posted by Joed

You would probably break the blade and may cause yourself some injury. Not a good idea to ever put the edge into the coming wheel.

I posted some honing suggestions in this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...me-help-2.html If you are have problems give it a try. Be sure the razor cuts arm hairs from the forst hone you use.

Goog luck!

I got the razor (a Wapi) cutting arm hair evenly off of a Naniwa 1k. I used Dylan's method for bevel setting, which is actually very similar to yours. The other hones I have are a coticule and an Escher. I raised a thick slurry on the coticule and have gone through the progression I'm putting at the bottom of this post many times and I figured it'd eventually work as my strokes got better, but it hasn't. Not sure what to change though since I only have these hones

Bevel set with circles and X strokes on Naniwa 1k until easily cutting arm hair
Coticule with heavy slurry: 50 X strokes. Dilute with a few drops of water: 50 more strokes. Keep doing this about 3 more times till I'm at water. I also increase the number of strokes by 10 or so each time I dilute. I rinse the hone and do 100 laps on a clean coticule. Then do 25 laps on Escher. Still not good. Tried another 30 laps on Escher. Still not good. Strop. Better, but razor still drags A LOT when I try to shave with it.

Originally Posted by heirkb

I got the razor (a Wapi) cutting arm hair evenly off of a Naniwa 1k. I used Dylan's method for bevel setting, which is actually very similar to yours. The other hones I have are a coticule and an Escher. I raised a thick slurry on the coticule and have gone through the progression I'm putting at the bottom of this post many times and I figured it'd eventually work as my strokes got better, but it hasn't. Not sure what to change though since I only have these hones

Bevel set with circles and X strokes on Naniwa 1k until easily cutting arm hair
Coticule with heavy slurry: 50 X strokes. Dilute with a few drops of water: 50 more strokes. Keep doing this about 3 more times till I'm at water. I also increase the number of strokes by 10 or so each time I dilute. I rinse the hone and do 100 laps on a clean coticule. Then do 25 laps on Escher. Still not good. Tried another 30 laps on Escher. Still not good. Strop. Better, but razor still drags A LOT when I try to shave with it.

It's hard to say w/o seeing what you're doing but my guess would be the heavy slurry. If you are cutting arm hairs off the 1k all you really need to do is refine the scratch pattern and reduce the burrs. I would go back to the 1k and get it popping arm hairs. When you go to the coti try not using any slurry at all and do a bunch of laps. You are just reducing the scratch pattern here. Give an arm hair test and look at it under magnifier of some sort to get an idea as to the roughness of the scratches. When you think the scratches are all the same, or gone give it a shave test.

I would start w/o slurry just to get a feel for what you are doing on the coti. You probably will need to use a slurry to refine the edge for a smooth shave but this is where I believe you are having issues, so try w/o slurry for a while.

When you do decide to go with slurry, make it so it looks like milk in color and consistency. It should be water thin. Do about 10 laps and observe the bevel under a magnifier. When it looks like the scratches from the 1k are out you can start diluting the slurry, very slowly. If you get to just water in three steps you are diluting too fast.

Slurry rounds the edge but does cut faster than water only coti. By slowly diluting the slurry you are reducing the roundness of the edge and still removing metal a bit faster that coti and water. As the slurry gets diluted increase your lap counts. What you want to do is bring the rounded edge back to a sharp edge. This takes a lot of practice.

Another alternative method would be, after the 1k cuts arm hair put a piece of electrical tape on the spine and hone on the coti with water only. This is essentially creating a second bevel but would probably wind up with only one. The goal here is to make the best use of your hones on hand so taping the spine will reduce the metal you are cutting with the fine coti after the 1k. After all, the edge is where 'the rubber meets the road' and the bevel is a supporting character. Good luck! Feel free to PM me if you have any issues.

p.s. are you planning on coming to the WNY meet in May? Here's the link: http://straightrazorpalace.com/get-t...y-14-16-a.html