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Thread: Soap Making Escapades
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01-28-2007, 02:51 PM #21
I'd keep the clay in the formula if possible as I've never used a soap/cream that gives me such a great glide as those that use some clays.
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02-06-2007, 06:32 PM #22
Are there many members here that make soap?
I have just ordered some stuff to make a batch of shaving soap but there are not many recipes available to try for shaving soaps?
I am going to try this(a variation of an internet recipe)
4 oz.Coconut oil
1 oz.Hemp seed oil
5 oz.Olive oil
6 oz.Palm oil
1 tbsp Bentonite clay
Lavender oil
Also does the inclusion of clay blunt the razor faster at all? I read somewhere that it is also used as an exfoliant, which suggests abrasiveness. Unless it is in such small quantities to not affect this?
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02-07-2007, 08:02 PM #23
Thanks Nicky,
I have this recipe too but have not tried it yet. I have tried 5 now and have about another 5 to go, although this one is further down the pile based on my newly aquired knowledge of the soap world and the lathering effects of various oils.
Actually that reminds me, I have a batch I made a few weeks ago that will be ready to try today.
The clay is used in face masks as a detoxifier as it absorbs toxins. It is not abrasive. You will see when you add it to your soap or just mix a bit in some water. It really is a good lubricant.
I'll let you know how I get on. Please feel free to post your results on this thread too if you like. Its good to have another soaper around.
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02-07-2007, 08:51 PM #24
Sounds like you have got well into the soap making side of this then!
Would you say that from your current experiences that it is possible to make comparable soap to commercially available products?
I think my main attraction in this field is that if i can find a good soap base, that i can play with the fragrance side, but as i have yet to do any experiments I will have to see how it goes.
I see that you are also a UK resident, have you found any particular supplier of oils and soapmaking equipment to be partcularly good?
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02-07-2007, 10:05 PM #25
I think I've heard that bentonite might not be the best clay to put into shaving soap as it can have a drying effect - I think a soapmaker switched from bentonite to kaolin clay for this reason.
As for making soap that compares to commercial soap, unless you really want to learn to do this yourself, you can get GREAT products at very good prices from Honeybee Sue, Mama Bear, Colleen, Sue St. Charles, etc. Honeybee Sue's soaps are one of my favourites a 3.5 ounce puck of nicely scented (with fragrance oil) glycerine based soap loaded with shea butter, clay, aloe, etc. will only set you back about $4 (plus shipping). Mama bear is slightly more, but her soaps are even larger.
While its possible to make soap for less, you will spend a LOT of time and money before you develop a formula that is comparable to what is already available.
One other thing I would suggest is to consider adding shea butter - I've used several glycerine-based soaps and the ones with shea butter in them are hands down the best (for me, anyhow) in terms of providing a close comfortable shave and having lather that doesn't dry out or dry out the skin.
This isn't to dissuade you from trying to build a better mousetrap, just that its going to take a lot of time, effort, and money to develop a recipe that's as good as what's already available. There's always room out there for another good product - and if you're looking for something specific, the home made option may be the only way to get exactly what you're looking for.
The most interesting thing is that the home soapsters have products that rival (and in many cases shame!) the established high-end brands - and at very reasonable prices.
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02-08-2007, 05:27 AM #26
Hi
I have enjoyed reading your thread. I have been developing a shave soap myself so I can relate to your situation.
As far as the clay I have tried both kaolin and bentonite. The bentonite is far slicker. If you have both rub each between damp fingers and you will feel the difference immediately. Clay is used in such small amounts (1-2% of weight of oils) the drying effect is non existant and easily overcome with adequate super fatting.
Have you been to soapcalc.com ? It is a site where you put in the oils you plan on using and it will tell you the qualities of the finished soap. It is not perfect but may save you from trying a recipe doomed to failure.
I design my recipes there and ones that look promising I will make. I try for very high creamy lather, low bubbly lather, good conditioning, and a hard bar.
Of course I can't share my recipe but I can tell you a few things that don't work. I will tell you the best soap I have made to date has no coconut.
Jean
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02-08-2007, 07:57 AM #27
I enjoy to experiment quite a bit, so to play with the recipe for this i think i would find quite fun. Plus i am up for a challenge.
With everywhere I look stating that coconut is the soapmakers favourite, it is interesting that you say you don't use it.
I also love the secretive part of this (although doing research is quite frustrating) Nobody wants to give you a good recipe! ha
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02-08-2007, 08:51 AM #28
For bath soap coconut rocks, but it makes large bubbles that pop quickly. For a shaving soap you want small bubbles that last. Look toward palm, tallow, and stearic acid. These are hard oils that will accelerate trace. I will tell you I gave up on a CP and went to a HP for this reason. Also don't be afraid to superfat! My best so far is 12% superfat and feels great on the skin.
I do have a business and am hoping to go to market soon so keep an eye out for me.
Are you in the US? I have tons of supplies and if you need something in small quantity that I have I can get it to you for my cost plus shipping. I know how expensive it is to buy supplies in small quantities.
Have you tried to create a cream soap yet? It is not so hard and since it stays soft you can add more stuff at any time.
Jean
P.S. You were addicted to soaping after your first batch reached trace weren't you? I just love kitchen chemistry!
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02-08-2007, 06:23 PM #29
I'm in the UK, so posting them will probably be quite expensive. I did however just manage to pay 26 pounds for 500g each of Coconut and palm oil, 100 ml of hemp oil, 500 ml olive pomace oil, 100g bentonite and 30 ml of lavendar oil. So buying in smaller quantites is quite expensive.
I just have to get some lye and then i'll put this one together. when it is ready i will report on the result.
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02-08-2007, 07:07 PM #30
I second what Suzuki said, it is time consuming and can be expensive but the products are better than commercial brands. Unfortunately I fear the recipe you have there will not be too good but we shall see.
Nicky: Olive pommace, veg shortening, lard and tallow (beef dripping) can all be found in Tesco or Sainsbury (the big ones for the Pommace). The coconut and palm can be found in Asian supermarkets in 500g tubs (both about 70p each). I bought all my stuff from a soap supplier first time round before I realised I could get the exotic oils from the Asian shop. The shipping is monstrously expensive.
I will second what Jean says as well. My best soap to date was actually tested today. I also found soapcalc today. This program was a revelation. It turns out my best soap (tested today) was indeed a recipe with the highest cream number, lowest bubble number and best conditioning number. I have compiled a new recipe based on this program to give me good conditioning and bar hardness too. The cleansing also needs to be a low number so the soap doesn't dry your skin and remove too many natural oils.
All the recipes I have tried in the past were useless in hindsight (although were getting better). I was just shooting in the dark. I agree with Jean about the coconut. I wouldn't agree about removing it altogether but for shaving soaps a high coconut conc is not good.
Anyway, welcome aboard Jean! I am glad to have a few soapers around to give me some tips and read my thread.
My next batch will go on at the weekend.
oh yeah and I agree about the bentonite vs the kaolin and will admit I am mildly addictedLast edited by Bobbo; 02-08-2007 at 07:52 PM.