Thread: Made my own Balsa strop!

yea the powder is tough to work with...i mix it with mineral oil...

i wouldn't probably use any of those compounds shown in that link...i would try to find a vendor that is well recommended here on SRP for CrOx or FeOx

only because I've read that if the CrOx compound isn't completely pure it can have some rogue particles that are bigger than the 0.3 to 0.5 microns that the CrOx is supposed to be

Would you mind telling me the quantities of oil and crox you mix?
How does balsa react to the mineral oil?
Thanks

i basically take a pinch or 2 of the CrOx powder...not more than like 1/4 teaspoon and put it in a glass cup or bowl....anything you can get your finger in to stir will work...then i drip in the mineral oil like 1 or 2 drops at a time while mixing with my finger the whole time....i just did that until i got a smooth paint like substance that's easy to spread

thanks mate, you've been very helpful indeed
i just ordered some balsa sheets off flea bay
can't wait to try it out and check the results under my veho x400
one thing i can't figure is why most people only to 10-20 laps on the balsa
if the crox is equivalent to 30K grit, why so few laps?
i guess the microscope will reveal what's going on on the edge...

awesome man, glad I could help... I've only been honing for a few months myself but honestly lately things really starting to take off...

I've been using a Norton 4k/8k combo along with the Naniwa 12k and I just wasn't getting the buttery smooth shaves that I wanted.... I think half the battle was the fact that I wasn't quite setting the bevel 100%

so once I got that sorted out and spent a little more time setting the bevel things got much better, but still wasn't getting really smooth shaves even after the 12K stone....

that's what I ordered the balsa strop with the CrOx and FeOx from whipped dog....i admit to doing between 30-50 laps on each side followed by about 100 laps on my English bridal modular paddle strop from SRD and lately I've been getting the keenest edge and most comfortable shaves I've ever had....it really is a beautiful thing : )

good luck...and post up some pics under the microscope if you have the ability to do it i mean....I'd love to see what your able to see at that magnification

Originally Posted by Boarder277

seems like even an online hobby and craft store would sell only the highest quality balsa...so it will hopefully be in good shape

They sell what they get. Does anyone involved with balsa strops really know balsa? If so, should it be A, B or C grain and what density? 4 lb/cu ft or lighter is considered top quality... If you talk to any "olde time" modelers they will tell you what is sold today is for the most part crap!

Hi,

As i posted earlier, i bought a balsa Block in this store: TowerHobbies.com | Midwest Balsa Block 1 x 3 x 12".

I found this information on a norwegian modeling forum and some members of this forum has bought there. It seems to be good quality.
I just hope the mail company take a good care of my balsawood.

ps: If i don't like the result With balsawood, it's always possible to glue a piece of leather on it.

Originally Posted by Boarder277

awesome man, glad I could help... I've only been honing for a few months myself but honestly lately things really starting to take off...

I've been using a Norton 4k/8k combo along with the Naniwa 12k and I just wasn't getting the buttery smooth shaves that I wanted.... I think half the battle was the fact that I wasn't quite setting the bevel 100%

so once I got that sorted out and spent a little more time setting the bevel things got much better, but still wasn't getting really smooth shaves even after the 12K stone....

that's what I ordered the balsa strop with the CrOx and FeOx from whipped dog....i admit to doing between 30-50 laps on each side followed by about 100 laps on my English bridal modular paddle strop from SRD and lately I've been getting the keenest edge and most comfortable shaves I've ever had....it really is a beautiful thing : )

I too use a Norton 1k for bevel setting followed by a 4/8k
I'm not an expert by any means but I recon a correctly set bevel is 95% of the job.
Unless the bevel is right I find that no amount of work on the finer stones can fix the issue.
Like I said, I use a veho 004 microscope to check the initial bevel.
If it's right it will shave hairs off my arm even after the 1K.

Here's a very good vid that show examples of bevels and how they can be the main factor for a poor shave:
Supercharged JNAT Straight Razor Edge - YouTube
As the man says the bevel must be "to the edge", that's the whole trick right there.

I was considering a naniwa 12k but will try the balsa block first.
I bought a 3x4x12" on fleabay.

At present I go straight to a strop after the norton 8k and get my razor to pass the hht on about 20% of attempt...

ATB