Thread: Define "strop draw," please

The thread title is pretty much what I need in a nutshell. I hear the term "draw" when discussing strops, but I have never heard and explanation of what constitutes it. I'm sure by now I've experienced it, but it helps to know what I'm looking for when selecting strops an stropping lap number variations. Thanks in advance...


Adam

The best way that I can define draw is, the feeling, or sensation that the leather is grabbing hold of your razor as you strop!
Running your finger across silk = no draw!
Running your finger across rubber = lots of draw!

I hope this helps!

Is draw a preference thing or does the amount of draw you get from a strop affect its effects on the edge? Or does the effect come from the preference? Thanks, by the way, JMS. That was helpful and roughly the definition I expected, but I need a further explanation of how it affects stropping action.

Thanks,
Adam

Your stropping action is the same on whatever strop you use.

The draw or suction between the leather and the blade will effect the pressure you need to apply versus the speed of your action.

I have found that generally, horse leather provides more draw than cow leather. The fluffier the surface, the greater the draw and of course if you apply more rather than less oil to the leather you can go from no draw to almost impossible to draw.

I prefer a drawing suction feel when I am stropping. Not a tacky over oiled feeling. I think this is because I can feel better that the whole blade is even on the leather surface. I get this feeling better on a horse leather strop. Having said this, I don't really notice that I get a sharper edge using horse rather than cow leather. I just feel more in control on the horse strop.

The other thing with a strop which I think is important is the length. I find it easier to strop faster when the strop is longer rather than shorter. Two foot of usable strop is fine, two foot six is better and two foot nine is getting luxurious. The width is nice at 3" but not essential. Luxurious rather than important shall we say.

Hope this helps.

Great replies. Just to add, from my very simple minded approach, strop draw equals sharpness, so that in itself makes it a good thing to have. Some strops don't draw very well. They still sharpen the blade, they just have less feedback. In other words I have no need for any sharpness test, other than whether the blade is drawing or not. As long as I have draw the shave will be excellent. Light draw= good shave, strong draw=great shave, no draw=more honing.

I think you will find strop draw has far more to do with the leather surface finish and treatment than the kind of leather used. My horse can have lots of draw or practically none, my Latigo (cowhide) is typically right in the middle, my synthetic is higher than all of them.

Buffed, smooth, dressed, dry, etc.... will all have an effect on draw, as will pressure used in stroppping. Good stropping is the key to a sharp edge, the actual tool or surface used is secondary.

Tony

I lost much time with my Strop. Knowing that any problem with stroping but I thought that was my technique. My Strop not produced any grip. It used stroping in my palm hand. About 10 days ago he got fat for leather in the Strop and started to produce grip and the edge improved markedly.
Have I done the right thing?
Is there a way to increase adherence?
My Strop is palette combo with one side paste with red dovo.

Thanks

Dioni

To Tony Miller,

I don't disagree with your post at all. I actually thought you were just repeating what I said in a different way.

But what would be very helpful since price is not an indicator of draw is if you could describe the draw of the different strops that you sell clearly on your internet site. So on a scale of 1 to 5 if one means no draw and five means full draw a simple rating can be awarded. If not this, a very clear description of draw is most important to the buyer. It is even more important as you the supplier seem to be able to impart whatever draw you like to a particular strop depending upon how you prepare the leather.

I hope you can take this as positive criticism from a potential customer who has read your descriptions but remained confused.

English,
Point well taken and something I'll try and add to the items description and front page tomorrow when I open again. I had my own opinions already but wanted to get a few of the buffed pieces out there first and see if others confirmed my thoughts.

I have been describing them as light, heavy or meduim all along but it's hard to have a numeric rating as what is a "5" ? I could probably safely say my synthetics would be a 5 being as they have more draw than any commercial strop I have tried, my buffed horsehide maybe a 4 when new and only time will tell if it will stay the same, increase or decrease with use and proper care (brushing with a stiff brush). My Latigo would range from 2/3 when new to a 4 once used a few weeks. Application of neats foot oil could bump it to a 4 quickly as would pumicing the surface. The top grain horse, un-buffed would be a 1 in most cases, silky smooth, no feedback but where the edge just sneaks up on sharp . Dressing and use will increase it to a 2/3 over time.

From memory I might compare the draw of buffed horse with one of the nicer buffed finish Dovo strops, the latigo with an nice Illinois strop.

Many will agree a high draw strop seems to fit well with heavier razors. The extra draw gives a feeling of more control in use. Lighter, full hollows and delicate feeling razors seem to bog down for me on heavey draw strops and there I prefer a really smooth, light draw strop. Middle of the road to me is still a latigo strop or a plain cowhide strop that has been dressed.

Thanks for the input,
Tony

Thanks for listening Tony. That's an excellent reply.

I think the words you use are better than any scale I could try and invent for you.