Thread: CrOx

The stuff from SRD also work like a dream.

If you are in the UK you can get Dry CrOx from
Green Chrome Oxide Powder Strop Dressing for Razors 5gm on eBay, also, Barber Shop Shaving, Vanity Perfume Grooming, Collectables (end time 03-Feb-09 00:02:14 GMT)
£4.99 5g Free post

I mix it with a little oil & use it to polish razors before the metal polish.
Works great.

Originally Posted by Chris L

Mixing is simple. There's no exact ratio needed. A very small amount, say the size of a pea or at the most a blueberry mixed with 1/2 tsp of light oil (mineral, honing, "household" oil) makes for enough "paint" to easily coat a strop. The idea is NOT to paint heavily and make for an opaque surface. That's too much.

Ok, so now you have about 1/2 tsp of "paint". How do you spread that evenly? And how do you figure out what's thin enough so you don't run out before getting to the other end?

Originally Posted by Quick

Ok, so now you have about 1/2 tsp of "paint". How do you spread that evenly? And how do you figure out what's thin enough so you don't run out before getting to the other end?

What are you applying it to, Quick? Balsa? If so, take a finger (it will stain your skin like paint to you may want to stick your finger in a sandwich baggie tip or something. Not a biggie if it stains but it'll stick around for days until it wears off. "Paint" an "X" across the balsa. A big X. Just dab 1/2 or less of the "paint" you mixed up to make the first \ then the rest or less for the /. Don't even worry about making anything other than an X. The "paint" won't soak in completely on the balsa right away. Take a razor and strop. Your razor will spread the X out a bit more. Actually, razors for quite some time will pick up some of that "paint" when you strop. You'll have to wipe the spine at at the beginning, carefully, wipe the edge to get the excess off and avoid staining a plain leather strop you want to keep looking purty (at least I do). Eventually, the "paint" soaks in and dries enough where there's no excess to contend with.

If you're applying to leather I suggest the same approach. If you're applying chrome ox oil paint to linen, I've never done that and don't think you need to mix with oil (dry powder for cloth. dry powder for leather is my preference as far as that goes).

Chris L

Cool! I read the thread on making a balsa wood strop a week or two ago and bought a board at the hobby store. Now I think I'm inspired to actually do something with it .

You'll like it. Remember, your goal is not to end up with an evenly coated thick coat. A plain X with unpainted balsa between the X is just fine. Your X stropping pattern will ensure than the entire razor edge passes over chrome ox.

Chris L

Hmmm, no X pattern for me. Strop is 3", hones are going to be 3". But now I'm worked up into a frenzy and will be off to Orchard Supply in about 10 minutes...

The balsa board I have is 36" x 4" x 1/4". I'm thinking 1/4" plywood or maybe lexan for a backing.

What's a good length? I suppose there's a really slim chance it might see a suitcase some time in the future so I figured I'd cut it in half for two 18" strops. With handle, total 23"-24".

So a 24" x 3" strop with 18" of surface? That sound ideal?

That would work. I treat mine more like a refresher hone and only have about 8-9" in workable length. 10 passes usually refreshes the edge for another few weeks. I would say for 18" of pasted length you'd need less than 10 pass FOR SURE.

Chris L

Ok... I'm back from Orchard Supply. Only $47.

Haha, only $7.50 for materials for 2 paddle strops (plus the $5 I spent last week for the balsa wood and $8 for the 2 packets of crox I just ordered from you ). I've forgotten the reason that board measurements are different... 3" wide board measures 2.5" across so I went with the 4" to get 3.5" boards. I vaguely remember something like it used to be 3" before they trimmed it square or something like that. Sounds like a sawmill instituted standard. My 4" balsa wood board measures 4" across. go figure.

You're on your way my friend.

Chris L