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Thread: Yellowstone Compound
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06-30-2009, 04:53 PM #81
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Thanked: 132So, what is the 'final' analysis on this Cerium Oxide?
Is it something we should add to our stropping regiment? Is it reliable, effective, in general?
Thanks,
Mac
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06-30-2009, 11:47 PM #82
I've had good results and several people have mailed me back to report the same.
I'll rate my results 1-10
I've tried
dusting a dry linen #9 (only a 9 because there MIGHT be a better way)
pasting a balsa #6
pasting basswood #6
pasting leather with oil #5 (really grabby )
dusting wet leather #8 (be sure to get out lumps and rub off extra)
it seems dry linen works very well
I suspect a DRY soaped linen would work just as well
my main advice would be to keep it away from fats because it causes a lot of drag
also, try to get the lumps out if you are going to paste a hard surface
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Disburden (08-18-2010), McWolf1969 (07-01-2009)
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07-01-2009, 12:02 AM #83
SRD's Felt Cotton Combo
The inner surfaces dusted with the powder. The outer left raw. The felt is more abrasive than the linen but is also very forgiving. The linen is the final touch. Just as if you are cleaning a glass surface.
It gives you 4 levels of abrasive, and makes a perfect touch up strop.
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McWolf1969 (07-01-2009)
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07-01-2009, 12:22 AM #84
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Thanked: 402Great to hear!
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07-01-2009, 12:32 AM #85
Olivia
I saw the Fromm in your selection! It was my first shaver, and is still one of my favorites! Hones well, and gives a great shave!
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07-01-2009, 12:37 AM #86
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Thanked: 402Yes its a good blade! I should polish it with some cerium oxide as well.
I was working on it before that stuff came up.
Its really bringing things forward.
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07-01-2009, 12:37 AM #87
BEEP BBEP BEEP newsflash
dry soap works great on linen
wet soap sucks
glycerin soap you will have to wash it out
try to use the cheapest dryest soap possible
I'm using ZOTE which is available in the laundry section anywhere Spanish people live in the US
any cheap laundry SOAP (bar soap) seems to work
for pasting the backside of the linen rub it vigorously with soap and apply the powder dry, rubbing it in with fingers
no water, it still sticks
soaping the linen will keep it from working through to the clean side or falling offLast edited by gratewhitehuntr; 07-01-2009 at 12:43 AM.
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0livia (07-01-2009)
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07-01-2009, 02:19 AM #88
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Thanked: 171I pasted a balsa wood paddle strop with some pure cerium oxide powder the same way I pasted another paddle strop just like it with hand american chromium oxide. I followed the wiki I think, where I dipped my finger in mineral oil then touched the powder, smeared it on the balsa, and repeat until it has a nice even light coating.
I haven't done enough razors on both to say anything "for sure," but I'll share some of my initial test results. I tried both the chromium and cerium oxides (on different days, etc) after finishing with my nakayama. I looked at everything under the scope at around 85x. The chromium oxide appears to be coarser than the nakayama, and the cerium oxide appears to be finer than the chromium oxide. I haven't made a distinct difference in fineness of the nakayama vs the cerium oxide yet, but they appear to be pretty close in grit.
Now, as far as the shaves. For me, there hasn't been much difference between chromium oxide and cerium oxide. Hitting he cerium oxide after the nakayama honestly didn't change the way it shaved much, if at all, and hitting the chromium oxide changes it a bit, but really not too much. If I had to pick one to keep, it would be cerium oxide, but to be honest, there really isn't a very big difference between the two as far as the shaves go. At least, not for me in my initial tests. There IS a difference, it's just not THAT much. I don't know if I expected a huge difference or what, but I'm at the point right now where I'm glad I have it and I'll continue to use it anytime I choose to use pastes, but it's just not different enough from chromium to really wow me. Certainly not the "everyone should own it immediately" feeling that I have about the nakayama
One test that I need to do is not have such a smooth/polished bevel to start with (ie coming off the nakayama). I've only used the cerium oxide after the nakayama, and after chromium oxide. I'm a little curious to see how it would feel vs chromium oxide after a ~12k hone or an escher or something. Perhaps this is where it would really shine (or fall on it's face).
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FloorPizza (07-10-2009), McWolf1969 (07-01-2009)
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07-01-2009, 03:42 AM #89
O_S said once you get a Nakayama pastes will cease to matter
same scratch pattern?
wow
(goes to make sure this is the HAD section)
on one hand I'm happy that the paste can create a similar edge
on the other I'm sad because I want one of these hones
Pjrage, I wasn't impressed with balsa, try linen and 15 laps
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07-01-2009, 06:09 AM #90
Gratewhitehuntr-
I've tried to contact you about this cerium stuff but haven't heard back, maybe the messages never went through?
I'd really like to try some of this stuff on a felt pad I have at the moment.
Everyone, thanks for keeping us posted of your results with this stuff.