Thread: paddle strop

i am making some paddle strops out of read oak for the paddle and ballsa wood for the bed, my question is has anyone ever used oak for the bed, i sawed a pice of read oak 1/4 x 3 x 15 and put it on the oak bed it looks just as good as the ballsa, it took a good sanding and is just as smoth as the ballsa, i am wondering if it would have any draw backs it being oak .

There are so many surfaces used. But, other than balsa, the only other wood I remember being used is pine. I don't know how common the use of pine is. But, if used, then cedar should work also. Hmmm...

Well, Balsa and Pine are incredibley soft and Oak, well is hard. I'm not sure if it matters.
Would you be opposed to putting a piece of Leather on it. Most paddles IMHO work better with leather on them, especially if you are going to paste. I think many folks use just balsa due to a lack of funds. I don't see the benefit in using just wood. I'm sure you'd be able to find some leather where you live. A small piece, doesn't have to be top grade stuff either. Heck, you could even put a piece of canvas or some type of wool felt, anything that will hold pastes...I think it would be better...

Rich

Originally Posted by zib

I think many folks use just balsa due to a lack of funds.

This was initially true for me. Balsa is cheap. But, as I've become used to using balsa and pastes, I am becoming quite comfortable with their use.

This thread is interesting to me in that I've been experimenting lately with harder wood myself. Too early to comment.

I believe the reason balsa is used is not because it is cheap but because it has an incredible ability to hold the substance you are using in its poures. When I load one of my balsa strops with Crox, I rub the crox into the balsa and then wipe as much off the surface as I can.

The crox is then captured in the poures and the softness of the balsa allows the blade to be honed with each stroke. If you have too much crox on the surface, when using leather, it seems to not work well until most of it is gone. Then it works great for awhile until it is removed from the leather. Sort of like a variable grit stone.

One thing I have found out using the balsa is that fewer and lighter strokes are needed to accomplish what you want, and the surface lasts much longer than my hard leather.

This is just my own observation, however, and someone else may have a different experience.

Enjoy!

Ray