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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    I'm one of those who did the linen to latigo to horse routine. I don't know that the latigo to horse makes any difference (OTOH, maybe it does) but I do believe the linen does enhance the sharpness. IIRC the 'Interesting Article' thread you noted comes to that conclusion ?
    It was said that the abrasiveness of the linen did enhance the sharpness b/c of the removal of corrosion, but I believe the same was said of the leathers (though not quite as abrasive).

  2. #12
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    I find draw a definite item of personal preference. As I test both strops, linens and different fabrics daily for strops, I normally will do both a Thumb Pad Test and actually shave off both fabrics and the different leathers to test what I feel makes the most differences in materials. I do find that some of the slicker feeling leathers of today really don't provide the best results, however several of them do provide better results as they break in.

    From a personal standpoint, my preference in draw is something on the medium end. I like a little resistance, but not harder resistance. When doing a minimum of 1200 strokes per day on a stop I get an idea pretty quickly of what feels good to me or not.The other interesting thing for me is that when I find a strop that I like, it works for all types and shapes of razors. I have never found that any particular strop works better for one brand or shape of a razor vs. another.

    Have fun.

    Lynn

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  4. #13
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    Default My current progression

    Linen X 25, webbed fabric (SRD) X 25, Latigo X 30, TM horsehide X 30.

    This may be overkill, but I've noticed a significant improvement in my shaving edges since going to this.

  5. #14
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    Lynn, when you say you haven't found ideal results with some of the slicker strops, do you include vintage horse/shell in that category?

    I tend to agree with those here saying it's mostly preference. As far as theories about abrasiveness & draw, I'm sure it's technically true but the differences frankly must be too tiny to matter. I base this on the fact that I've never seen unpasted vintage strops – no matter how well-used – with the sort of grey/darkened streaks that you always see when abrasive paste is used.

    I like vintage shell strops and I agree that they have no draw when you begin stropping. After 40-50 fast passes they do build up a little draw. In fact that's my indication that the edge is ready, but I may well be imagining that there's any correlation.

  6. #15
      Lynn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylandog View Post
    Lynn, when you say you haven't found ideal results with some of the slicker strops, do you include vintage horse/shell in that category?

    I tend to agree with those here saying it's mostly preference. As far as theories about abrasiveness & draw, I'm sure it's technically true but the differences frankly must be too tiny to matter. I base this on the fact that I've never seen unpasted vintage strops – no matter how well-used – with the sort of grey/darkened streaks that you always see when abrasive paste is used.

    I like vintage shell strops and I agree that they have no draw when you begin stropping. After 40-50 fast passes they do build up a little draw. In fact that's my indication that the edge is ready, but I may well be imagining that there's any correlation.
    I really don't feel that the horsehide results are that good at first when the strop is new and the stropping is slick. As the strop breaks in, I do find that the results definitely improve. the results from some of my vintage horsehide strops are superb. This is only my opinion though and others may not experience the same. I try to hand rub all my strops until my palm is warm prior to use and after. Not only helps break in a strop, but helps to keep them supple and helps with the draw.

    Lynn
    Last edited by Lynn; 01-07-2010 at 01:31 AM.

  7. #16
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    I've been using a TM Latigo Cotton for two years. Just got a TM Horsehide Linen. Been Going Linen-Latigo-Horsehide for a couple weeks and it seems to me I'm getting better results. But who knows.....

    I love these strops though.

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn View Post
    I try to hand rub all my strops until my palm is warm prior to use and after. Not only helps break in a strop, but helps to keep them supple and helps with the draw.

    Lynn
    Come to think of it, probably heat probably has a lot to do with draw on slick shell strops.

    I always like to think the mounting draw means the edge is ready, but that's probably pure fantasy; the strop is just heating up.

  9. #18
    zib
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    I have a bunch, probably more than I need. I have a DD Scotch Shell which is like the aforementiond "Glass" It's more for the collection that anything else. One strop, a beauty I got off ebay and restored stinks of cigarettes, it just won't come out, so it's bannded to the garage, What sucks is, it has great draw...The russian leather, Latigo, Horse, etc...Lately, I've been "Dual Stropping. I'll always do 25 on some type of canvan or linen, then 25 on Latigo, and 25 on Kenrup's Paladin which is like a suede almost. So, it's like a progression, rough, less rough, fine....? you get the idea....
    We have assumed control !

  10. #19
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    I also like a medium draw in a strop. How much draw I feel seems to tell me more about the moisture level of my strop than anything else though. as the leather gets in need of conditioning the draw lessens and lessens just after conditioning it is almost heavier than I like.

    I gotta start doing the hand rub thing daily, I think it might really help especially in the dry winter house.

  11. #20
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    I picked up a vintage horse hide strop in great condition, when I first started using it I found it had a nice draw to it. After a month or so using it, the strop has a shine on it and there is little to no draw. Should I get some fine grit sandpaper or a pumice stone to take off the shine and hopefuly bring back some of that nice draw it once had?

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