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Thread: Making a paddle strop
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02-11-2014, 08:33 PM #21
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Posts
- 53
Thanked: 0im also making my first paddle strop at the moment so am glad i stumbled across this thread.
as for adhesive im using a good quality epoxy (Araldite specifically) im surprised no one has recommended epoxy. i use it to stick cue tips to pool cues and the pro guy that re-tips my predator cue swears by it.
so it made sense to use it because the materials used in both cases are the same leather and wood.
i do have cue tip glue thats also another option but prefer quality epoxy.
my paddle strop will be a modular one meaning the stropping surfaces are held on by magnets, i got the idea from Lynn Adams on a YouTube video (sorry Lynn but i want to try make my own rather than buying one).
i live in the uk and am importing some Dry Erase Magnetic Strip Roll 3" x 10' Magnet from the USA (assuming it sticks to itself still waiting for a response on that one).
i will stick the material to the "write on" side
i cant find any rolls of 3" magnetic strips in the uk.
using magnets means i can have as many stropping materials i as i want that all fit on the same strop.
im not trying to hijack this thread but
i do have a few questions though:
any suggestion on stropping surfaces and materials i could use and where i can get them?
like polly webbing or cotton canvas real linen and how thick this material should be, my leather is 3mm and i can get wool felt in thats 3mm thick.
but back to the adhesive good quality epoxy resin or cue tip glue gets my vote.
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02-11-2014, 09:01 PM #22
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
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- 11
Thanked: 0Contact cement is what most leatherworkers use to adhere leather to things. It's simple, strong, easy to find, stays flexible after it sets, and can be quite cost effective.
I use DAP Weldwood in the red can and in the GEL formula. You can find it easily at any hardware store, but it usually comes in a can the size of a small paint can. They have small glass bottles of original formula Weldwood too, but I find that it makes more of a mess, is harder to apply, and the quantity needed to get a good layer on both surfaces is more than the gel. Definitely a better option if you only plan on doing small projects every once in a while though.
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02-11-2014, 10:37 PM #23
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02-11-2014, 11:00 PM #24
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Posts
- 318
Thanked: 39I used epoxy when i made mine - they're not too dissimilar from Tony's ones that he posted. They're good for pasting and have lasted well so far. I must confess to having butchered some super cheap $6 ebay strips to make it but it works well enough.
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02-12-2014, 12:36 AM #25
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Posts
- 400
Thanked: 61I just made one too by happenstance I used 3M 77 spray adhesive and taped off any side I didn't want to get it on... Then just stuck on the leather... Perfect for my honing sessions so I don't have to go to the bathroom to finish off a razor
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02-12-2014, 01:06 AM #26
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
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- 11
Thanked: 0
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02-12-2014, 02:59 AM #27
or if you want a very easily replaceable leather/canvas, you can get velcro and stick down each end of the strop. It creates a very slight bump from the thickness but you don't need every mm of stropping surface on a 24" paddle.
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02-12-2014, 03:17 AM #28
Paddle
Pixelfixed is right on! Contact cement spread on both surfaces, let it sit 15min or so and it'll stick permanently. This is my 1st shot at it, completed a few weeks ago. (Before and after CrOx)
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The Following User Says Thank You to wyobarbershop For This Useful Post:
Tony A (02-12-2014)
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02-12-2014, 11:49 AM #29
No comparison with the rough paddle I made and highly finished paddle made by wyobarbershop.
My only consolation is that mine does work and it was something to do between fishing seasons.
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02-13-2014, 02:38 AM #30
That's all that counts Tony. It was fun, it works and it held you over while away from fishing!
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The Following User Says Thank You to wyobarbershop For This Useful Post:
Tony A (02-24-2014)