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Thread: Making a paddle strop

  1. #11
    Senior Member Ludvig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwlfca View Post
    This one is 20" long, 3" wide, with the stropping surface 15" (I measured my comfortable stropping stroke). It will also be a one sided paddle. So you can basically use any kind of reasonable quality adhesive?
    Your are not gonna put very much force on it so you don't need to be the best of the best. But I personally wouldn't use something I don't really trust. Better to do it well and once.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Just an FYI,do not use plain old yellow wood glue,it is water based and will soak into the leather.
    Spray or brush on contact cement is just about dry when you adhiese the leather to the wood.
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:

    kwlfca (02-07-2014)

  4. #13
    Senior Member kwlfca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Just an FYI,do not use plain old yellow wood glue,it is water based and will soak into the leather.
    Spray or brush on contact cement is just about dry when you adhiese the leather to the wood.
    Should I apply it to both surfaces or just the wood?

  5. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwlfca View Post
    Should I apply it to both surfaces or just the wood?
    Both sides,The leather can easily be removed down the road.
    kwlfca likes this.
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  6. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    This is my Paddle,back in the day when I got fanatical about pastes and sprays, i would change out the leather every couple weeks.
    Thank gawd I grew out of using that crap
    Is now just a travel paddle.
    kwlfca and Substance like this.
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  7. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Just an FYI,do not use plain old yellow wood glue,it is water based and will soak into the leather.
    Spray or brush on contact cement is just about dry when you adhiese the leather to the wood.
    You are just gluing leather to wood, not bonding re-entry tiles to the space shuttle. Almost any glue would work, you don’t need much.

    Water base glue will not affect the leather, firstly you are not introducing enough moisture and any moisture will dry. Does it really matter if the leather is dampened with alcohol or water?

    Saddles have been made for years with hide glue, a water base glue as were vintage paddle strops, antique furniture veneers and joints.

    I am always amused that people are so afraid of getting leather wet and reminded of the Sinefield joke about the cows pounding on the rancher’s door, “Hey lets us in, it’s raining out here and we’re wearing LEATHER.”

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I just find it better to use Contact cement,like shoemakers do.Spray or brush it on,let it get tacky,postion the leather and stick it on,Done.
    No clamping needed,no squeezout to trim,down the road if you want to swap out the leather,pull it off and repeat
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

  9. #18
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Nice leather cutter pixel!
    And those white inlays on your paddle, nice touches. I swear by contact cement and Loctite spray adhesives for leather and felt bonding.
    Cheers.

  10. #19
    ma deuce Tony A's Avatar
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  11. #20
    ma deuce Tony A's Avatar
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    I used leather glue and it has held up for quite a while. If you cut your own paddle leather from a hide after it is firmly glued to the paddle be sure and smooth the leather with a pumice stone.
    kwlfca likes this.

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