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Thread: Kanayama strops difference?

  1. #51
    Senior Member KsStraightShaver's Avatar
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    Ok so I have to ask, I have a kanayama an I know that it's been said that you need to soften the canvas part. Did all of you guys do some sort of softening? I ask this because I didn't I just used my razors on it an its began to soften with use I just figured that was good enough. I knew that no matter how hard it was using light pressure as you do on a strop it wouldn't damage my razors because it's still softer than a hone.
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  2. #52
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KsStraightShaver View Post
    Ok so I have to ask, I have a kanayama an I know that it's been said that you need to soften the canvas part. Did all of you guys do some sort of softening? I ask this because I didn't I just used my razors on it an its began to soften with use I just figured that was good enough. I knew that no matter how hard it was using light pressure as you do on a strop it wouldn't damage my razors because it's still softer than a hone.
    That was more or less what I was thinking of doing, but it was so hard, and I didn't use it enough to break it in, so washing it was a chance I took. Now it is just like my vintage linens and I'm glad I did it. That is good thinking about it not being as hard as a hone, and the light touch. Come to think of it when I did use it before I washed it none of the razors were hurt any.
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  4. #53
    barba crescit caput nescit Phrank's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    I've never been one to use a progression of strops. Linen/leather has been my routine. So when I got the suede component I thought it was mighty nice, but I didn't bother with it. Of course just as I thought the 90,000 was too nice to use, after regretting selling it, and buying the friend's extra 80,000, I felt the same way.

    I probably haven't stropped on it more than half a dozen times in over a year or two. This thread, amongst a couple of others, has inspired me, and now I am using it. All three components. I used it tonight and it does feel really nice through the razor.

    The linen was so hard when I got it that it scared me. I figured it might micro chip an edge. There was a thread about it and Birnando advised washing it a few times. I thought about it and wondered if it wasn't supposed to be like a board, so I didn't do it at first. I finally broke down and one run through the machine with a bit of Tide and a load of clothes, and it is just right.

    It isn't a noodle, but it is soft and nice to strop on. If it was still stiff I'd wash it again. Most all the old pro linens on my vintage strops are soft like this is now.
    I had the #80000 which became a gift to a friend, have the #30000 and still have the #60000 tucked away never used, but did exactly that Jimmy, into the washing machine for three cycles, lost the little leather tag on the end of the linen, hung out to dry, then lightly flattened with an iron, beautiful and soft now...no problem.
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  5. #54
    Senior Member JTmke's Avatar
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    From Aframestokyo re-phrased

    how to make canvas softer

    repeat whole process three times

    rub body soap (bar type) on strop and rinse
    Put canvas on wood board and pound with a wood mallet
    scrub with washing brush
    rub with bar soap
    scrub with washing brush
    "wrapping by Nagura to polish the surface of the canvas strop" not sure, rub with nagura?
    wash in washing machine
    dry in the shade for a couple days
    put body soap (bar) on by brush
    wrap around beer bottle strongly

    three times, I'd be soft at the end of that. I think you are just to abuse it in any way you can thing of short of damaging it until it is broke in and soft.
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  6. #55
    Razorius Maximus hrfdez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    I've got the washer set on warm. In the past I've washed vintage linens that came lumpy/dirty in a bucket with cold water and Woolite. This worked well enough, but one day I got lazy and washed a vintage one in the machine along with a load of clothes. Came out fine, so I took a gamble with the Kanayama. The one thing I won't chance is the dryer. I let it hang and air dry.
    Thank you!

  7. #56
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTmke View Post
    From Aframestokyo re-phrased

    how to make canvas softer

    repeat whole process three times

    rub body soap (bar type) on strop and rinse
    Put canvas on wood board and pound with a wood mallet
    scrub with washing brush
    rub with bar soap
    scrub with washing brush
    "wrapping by Nagura to polish the surface of the canvas strop" not sure, rub with nagura?
    wash in washing machine
    dry in the shade for a couple days
    put body soap (bar) on by brush
    wrap around beer bottle strongly

    three times, I'd be soft at the end of that. I think you are just to abuse it in any way you can thing of short of damaging it until it is broke in and soft.
    I'm glad I tossed mine in the wash the one time before I read that. Not that I'm saying Mr. Aframes is wrong, but my way seems to have worked out well enough without near the effort ..........

    Quote Originally Posted by hrfdez View Post
    Thank you!
    You're very welcome.
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  9. #57
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    On point, it was mentioned that on the two piece Kanayama, users tend to hold both the cordovan and the suede piece in order to grip it right. I think this is a little bit of a stretch. for eg: On my other strops, that have d rings, when I start on the final leather stropping (Not the Kanayama) I hold both d rings, ie' the canvas and the leather together. On the Kanayama higher end strops their strops are 3 pieces. The cordovan & suede on the one metal clasp, totally separate to the canvas strop which is on its own clasp. In addition to that the Kanayamas, like the Illinois are without handles. It stands to reason that you'd prefer to get a good grip. Cordovan/shell/horsehide strops, traditionally are less thick than bovine or other strops. Thats why some of the earlier shells were glued to another piece of leather. Kanayama strops are not joined in that way. In any event it's superfluous as if anyone was so put out by having no handle, either don't buy the Kanayama or buy another clasp from them to put on the tail of the strop.

  10. #58
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Str8Up View Post
    Would you say length and thickness make a difference?
    That's what She said....

  11. #59
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
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    The folks that have the hi-end Kanayama strops just keep them in the original box...take them out twice a year to fondle it...then put it away,to keep it pristine for the next guy. It's like having a 1963 Corvette Split Window...lol
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  13. #60
    Senior Member BanjoTom's Avatar
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    Yes you are correct. I just compared my 95000 to my 30000. The 95 is about two inches longer and it is thicker by half than the 30. Been using the 30000 for years and I highly recommend it but NOT as your first strop. Gotta learn how to strop before investing in one of these beauties.
    And I found holding the strop much easier to control using an old fashioned claw grip as opposed to the thumb index grip so commonly used today.

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