Thread: balsa or felt?

Not sure if this goes in the Strop or Honing forum, but since it's really a strop question, I'll start here.

Waiting for my DMT8EE to arrive and I'm wondering...

I'm planning to use the DMT to maintain my edges as needed. I'm new to honing and will only be keeping up edges initial set and polished by a pro, and I'm not looking to set up a honing arsenal...yet. But I am planning to have some sort of finishing process in place, going from the DMT to a 1micron and then .5micron past or spray.

Aside from cost, which I've researched pretty well, do you think there is a material difference between pastes on balsa or sprays on felt (or pastes on felt if that's kosher)? Is one easier to use and/or maintain than the other? Should I expect different results from one method or the other? I'm not looking for the worlds best edge; just looking for a very good daily shave.

Thanks,

--David

David,

The DMTs are fairly aggressive, even the EE.

In my limited knowledge, I would be inclined to suggest for refreshing your edges:

1) A barber hone, or a stone in the 10 - 12k category (waterstones (e.g. Naniwa), Chinese 12k), or even a coticule.

and /or

2) CrOx - I have used CrOx on felt (I normally use a hard leather paddle) and it works very nicely - I have never tried CrOx on balsa (though I will at some stage !).

Personally, I use a Naniwa 12k & CrOx on leather for refreshing my edges.

The more exeprienced persons here at SRP will be able to give to a fuller and better answer

Good luck !

Have fun !

regards

Russ

The CrOx on balsa works very well for touch ups, also very cost effective. Also will work to take harshness from the edge post honing with DMT.

You should go ahead and try it if you can. I did this week, granted I had a little packet of CrOx powder. The strip of balsa set me back $2. 3" wide 3' long. So far as I can tell it works well.

I used my new DMT eef last night followed by a Spyderco UF, then the balsa. Good shave, but I'm new, so. Yeah.

It's worth a try, though I don't know about going from the EEf to balsa. It is a great stone, but that might be a pointless jump, initially. It's going to take a long while to get the stone to the point where you can get near it with a razor.

In my experience, wood is better for pastes, as it doesn't have so much give and thus rounds the bevel less over time.

I have some fiberboard pasted with diamond paste that are perfectly acceptable hones, from 1k to .5 micron. The .5 micron is a great touch up hone.

I have always found the balsa to be quite stiff feeling with CrOx paste and especially diamond paste. Personally, I do not like it at all. I definitely prefer a linen or leather for pastes, but the leather can feel stiff too. Problem for new guys is putting too much paste on. I have been using the felt for several years now and prefer it because of the results. For me, it works the best until something better comes along.

A lot of guys use the balsa as it is quite inexpensive and will work. Can do vs. what works best is an area of constant debate in here as well as the expense.

Have fun,

Lynn

I got bored this morning, and took a bit of balsa and coated the surface in mineral oil. then i sprinkled some CrOx on it. It "settled" in about a hour.
Now it seems a little more forgiving. "spongy"

i think balsa is better than leather for powders, just because i've always had trouble working powders (with mineral oil) into leather. however, the powder binds with balsa perfectly.

heck, if you're buying powders/pastes anyway, or already have them, it's worth the trip to the hobby shop

Question, why use balsa? It is because of the price, or is it exceptionally flatter compared to other woods?

Originally Posted by markevens

Question, why use balsa? It is because of the price, or is it exceptionally flatter compared to other woods?

from my relatively short experience with it (a day so far), it is very soft, and therefore forgiving. behaves like felt or leather, but doesn't need backing. it's hassle free, and really cheap.

It also takes powders surprisingly well, and often times powders are easier to acquire locally than pastes.

Originally Posted by markevens

Question, why use balsa? It is because of the price, or is it exceptionally flatter compared to other woods?

Balsa is softer than other woods. When you run your razor over it, it depresses slightly, exposing the particles of CrO impregnated into the grain of the wood.

I have had great success using it as a final step in my honing and for edge touch ups.

I vote balsa.