Thread: Given a cow

I think you need to smooth the leather before you ca use it for strops.
Smoothing can be done with prigression of sand papers , then you might have to condition the leather but you will have to test the strop first to know if it is a needed step.

Compared to my other strops a premium III in buffalo it is harder, not as flexable and slicker, to the vintage DD strop about as hard but not as slick.

Ck around,a half tanned hide of any bovine is worth far more than 25 bux ea.Is it a split hide? how thick is it?
Maybe some pocket money to be made here.

By eyeballing it, it appears to be 1/8 or more thick.

I'm afraid, Duane, that the only solution is to make a bunch of strops and pass them around to the Toronto guys for thorough testing...

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Ck around,a half tanned hide of any bovine is worth far more than 25 bux ea.Is it a split hide? how thick is it?
Maybe some pocket money to be made here.

The back of the hide is rough not smoth like the top does that mean it was a split hide?

Gentleman,
the lady that sold me the original leather has given me two more pieces of leather and I have a few questions before I ruin anything. The two pieces are thinner than the first and more supple. One looks like the leather you would find a coat made of I think. The second is very thin smooth and supple. Can anyone tell me if I need to do anything to the leather before I start cutting strops out of it, and if so what? I have neetsfoot oil and some Fromm strop dressing. There are three pics of each hide one far one close and one of the back. The first one was stored folded and the second was rolled up in a tube. I will answer any questions that you guys may have. She also gave me an Underwood typewriter with the original travel case since I like old things, the darn thing still works and the ribbon is not worn out.

Originally Posted by mainaman

I think you need to smooth the leather before you ca use it for strops.
Smoothing can be done with prigression of sand papers , then you might have to condition the leather but you will have to test the strop first to know if it is a needed step.

How would I test the strop? Make one and use it on a razor or do you have another suggestion?

The first batch of pics look like the leather comes from the shoulder or the side of the animal. Should be around 3 - 4.5mm thick. If it goes into the side (or skirt) at the ragged ends, it will be softer there.

There is no 'shell' in bovine leather, please note.

You will have to make sure that the leather is consistent across the strop - not partly hard, partly soft, or thick/thin. You also have to avoid wrinkles, scars and marks that would mar the surface of the strop. It looks like the leather has been around for a while and dried out a bit, making it harder. You could rub it with neatsfoot (don't use too much) on the back, then stack it, back to back and leave it for a while to see if it will soften. Personally I would cut out the viable strop lengths and then treat them if necessary.

It might be a better idea to cut a sample strop from each leather and use it - it may become more supple with use, then you will have spared yourself the uncertainty of oiling the leather.

Split hide is quite thin - a thick leather - say 5mm - goes through a splitter to cut it into two pieces of the same surface area but each half as thin as the original. The top surface has the original natural grain, but the other piece has to be treated in some way to make it look like it has a top layer again - they usually spray it with a fake surface, roll it and then imprint a grain in it, so it is usually unsuitable for strops - the top layer may be plastic-like.

The shiny stuff is either skived (thinned) or a clothing grade, perhaps used for the panels in a saddle that receive less wear.

Regards,
Neil

Is there Anything Neil doesnt know?!?