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04-13-2012, 06:59 PM #1
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- Apr 2012
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- Central Michigan, when I'm not on tour.
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Thanked: 2My First Strop: What to Seek, What to Avoid?
Title says it all... I couldn't be newer to straight razor shaving, and don't yet know if it's for me or not. Looking for a decent strop for a reasonable price. I don't want to ruin a good razor with a bad strop, that I bought primarily because it's cheap, but I also don't want to spend a C-Note or more on a Cadillac strop until I know for sure that I'm going to stick with the Manly Art, if you will...
So what's the 411? What's the difference between various leathers I see on the market? Bridle vs. latigo? Cowhide vs. horsehide vs. moosehide vs. elkhide vs. deerhide vs. ostritch leather, for all I know... Advantages/disadvantages between linen/nylon/denim/leather?
Thanks in advance for any guidance. If only Grandpa had shared what he knew....
(...And yes, I have already ordered a copy of Lynn's DVD, and thank heavens (and Lynn) that it (and this forum) exists.)
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04-13-2012, 07:05 PM #2
Strops are not all that critical and I wouldn't spend a lot when you are starting out.
You are guaranteed to put some cuts in it while you are learning.
Whipped Dog Straight Razor Shaving Equipment has a poor mans strop kit to get you started. When you decide that this is for you, you can go get a fancier one.
Amazon has some inexpensive ones also, but they are smaller.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Crotalus For This Useful Post:
mapleleafalumnus (04-27-2012), Rigger (04-13-2012)
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04-13-2012, 07:11 PM #3
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- Tempe, Arizona, United States
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Thanked: 943 inch is typically easier to learn on. covers the whole blade. 2 in is cheaper and some prefer having to complete x patterns. You can get Larry's poor man strop kit and a Star 3in big daddy (can find on ebay or google it) for less than the cost of a premium strop. If you dont cut them they will last forever. you probably will cut one. either way you will have a 2 inch and a 3 inch that you can practice on and learn what you like.
as far as leather goes for your first you should probably stick with latigo. Great draw, easy to maintain. They do take some breaking in, but all in all worth the wait. The poor man strop is english bridle, good draw low up keep and already broken in. Figure out what you like about the sizes before you go getting into expensive toys and exotic leather.
hope that helps
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The Following User Says Thank You to alb1981 For This Useful Post:
Rigger (04-13-2012)
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04-13-2012, 09:19 PM #4
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Thanked: 993What do you mean by this?
The strop is the single most important and critical piece of equipment that you will purchase for your straight razor arsenal. The technique with the strop is equally important. Good technique will keep your razor sharp for a long period of time, and poor technique can ruin an edge instantly.
There are several varieties of strops out there that I would not even look at. Some are from Amazon. Amazon is for books.
I would suggest something from Straight Razor Designs to begin with. The different leathers are responsible for "draw" which is the friction created between the material and the blade. The premium I has medium draw, the Premium III has very heavy draw (not recommended for a beginner), and the Roo has a light to medium draw. The default poly webbing option is fantastic, stick with that.
You are often able to purchase their strops on sale, which will help. As well, purchasing a cheapo to start out with is roughly the same cost as purchasing the replacement leather for a good one (after you've nicked the first piece).
Am
Do what you like, obviously, but the strop is incredibly important.
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04-13-2012, 09:57 PM #5
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Thanked: 2027Would someone please explain How DRAW means anything,how do's less or more draw eqaute to anything?
Draw is a feeling,how the hell do's it have any effect on the blade? tell me why draw,More or less, is better or worse for a strop,I think draw meens nothing,people get so wrapped up with DRAW.
Any pce of smooth unblemed leather will make a great strop,as will balsawood,newspaper,The levis your wearing,your arm,the back of your wet hunting dawg,what is the fixation with Draw? Stropping technique is paramount without question,the substrate used as above may not meen squat,I would like to see some proof,show it to me.
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04-13-2012, 10:05 PM #6
Some people like heavy draw, some like light. If you like the feel and feedback, that's a good enough reason for different draw. And if you want proof, do some tests instead of demanding it if others.
That said, one might make a case for heavier draw meaning more friction, which could theoretically mean faster polishing of the edge. I don't really care, so I'm not going to chase proof for you.
I also imagine that, like with so many of the arguments about edges, that it would come down to less than a 1% difference.
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04-13-2012, 10:14 PM #7
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Thanked: 2027
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04-13-2012, 10:19 PM #8
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04-13-2012, 10:42 PM #9
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04-14-2012, 04:09 AM #10
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Thanked: 993Draw is draw....it's a feeling. Personally, I get my best edges from a Premium III, which has heavy draw....but it really is just a feeling. If you like a slick strop, that's great...if you like a heavy draw strop, that's great too.
People get wrapped up in draw Pixlefixed, not because it has an effect on the edge, but because it adds a sense of personalization to your stropping experience.
I don't like slick strops, I like heavy draw strops. So, I'm happier about stropping when I've got a heavy draw.